Experiments in regency hair aka. my hair won't stay curly

My hair well its determined to be poker straight....it hates to curl and will shake off ringlets at the first opportunity. I on the other hand want curls. I have resorted to a perm previously...but its never the right kind of curl and I want different setting patterns for different hairdos.

So I think I've got the hang of the 1940's/50's hairdos. I know victory rolls are not possible in my hair but pin curls are great for creating the look I want.

Now comes regency...I will be covering most of my hair with cap/turban/bonnet at the promenade so only the fringe needs doing but for the dance workshop I will have to do a regency do...
My inspiration for the hairstyle comes from the one 'Harriet Smith' in the BBC version.

First off I needed to change to a centre-ish parting. Secondly, my hair isn't long enough to do a bun. I can only do the tiniest ponytail, so in comes the hair piece.

Now for the curls in the fringe....well ringlets really. I have never ever made ringlets successfully in my hair. I can use pincurls and get waves, sponge rollers and get tight curls that fall into waves. So a new experiment was needed. I thought I'd try using rags in my hair. So here are the results.

All of these methods were left in overnight and wrapped in headscarf to keep in tact.

Method: Pin curls
Equipment: bobby pins, mousse, hairspray
Sleep Yes/No: yes
Resulting curl: More of a wave than a curl and what did curl became a wave very soon
How long did it last?: half a day at most

Method: Sponge rollers

Equipment: mousse, hairspray, sponge rollers

Sleep Yes/No: no, woke up intermittently because of rollers digging into scalp.

Resulting curl: tight curl, easy to roll up. But curls horizontal rather than vertical.

How long did it last?: About a day (if plenty of hairspray liberally applied) but will fall to waves if not pinned in place.

Method: Rags

Equipment: Strips of fabric (2.5cm x 28cm), mousse, hairspray

Sleep Yes/No: Yes

Resulting curl: Vertical curl...nearest to ringlets I've ever got. Some are a little scruffy. Must remember to curl under not over.

How long did it last?: About a day although the springyness goes after about half a day.

Late addition - on dry hair
Using youtube tutorial

Method: Papillotes

Equipment: triangles of paper, hair strighterners, hairspray

Sleep Yes/No: Yes (but you don't have to sleep in them)

Resulting curl: You get 'kiss curls' which to can then fork out to turn into ringlets.

How long did it last?: it lasts several days....I washed them out as they had great staying power and look authentic.

So how do you get your curls to stay and how do you do ringlets?

Regency Dress Menu

A 'contents' page for all my regency dress related stuff, so you can see my 'progression' through stages of frustration before finally....acceptance. I wanted to show that these dresses aren't 'easy peasy' especially if you aren't the average size and shape. And that it takes a lot of trial and error before a garment is completed.

My initial attempt started with the fabric in 2011....
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/fabric.html

Some early...and maybe too adventurous designs
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/regency-dress.html

and early failure
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/regency-dress-part-2.html

Some revised designs
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/some-regency-dress-designs.html

Trying to draft my own bodice - early attempt
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/regency-dress-getting-it-to-fit.html

Getting inspired
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/regency-dress-for-jane-austen-festival.html

then realizing 'drawstring' dress isn't going to suit me
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/dresses-patterns-etc.html

Trying to use pattern from book
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/patterns-of-fashion-1.html
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/patterns-of-fashion-half-robe.html

and ending up with another failure
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/regency-dress-rant.html

Breakthrough
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/regency-dress-working-wrong-way.html

Moving forward
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/regency-dressa-little-progress.html

Added skirts and sleeves
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/regency-dressanother-update.html

Deciding on colours
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/regency-dress-decisions-decisions.html

Fichu's and Embroidery
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/regency-dress-fichus-chemises-and.html

Regency Dress sleeves
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/regency-dresssleeve-dilemma.html

Regency Dress modesty and material
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/regency-dressmodesty-and-material.html

Reticule
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/every-time-i-use-machine-it-reminds-me.html

Regency Dress II
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/regency-dress-ii-short-sleeves-and.html

Regency Dress II - accessories
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/regency-dress-ii-accessories.html

Regency Dress II - nearly finished
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/regency-dress-ii-nearly-there.html

Regency Fichu -Embroidery
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/embroidered-fichu-completed.html

Cap & Bonnet
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/a-regency-capto-save-fortune-in-hair.html

A regency cap...to save a fortune in hair dressing

So I've noticed that wearing a bonnet or turban really messes up your hair. I end up looking like I've been dragged through a hedge backwards. How do I solve this problem. A cap!

I like the one on the right

Now I know its usually older women who wear them. But I'm planning on wearing under headress rather than as a cap in its own right.

A Lavinia hat of fine moss straw — a small cap of lace beneath, ornamented on one side with a small bunch of flowers, and tied with cerulean blue ribband on the other.

With my bonnet (I finally found one I liked that didn't make me feel like a pet wearing one of those cone things). I soaked it and shaped it. Still haven't decorated it yet.

It looks close to the one in the image above.

It looks to me in the fashion plate she has some kind of cap underneath. And she doesn't look 'ancient' or anything.

 So using some mystery left over fabric I cut off a skirt lining that looked like it was lightweight enough.

This is the cap 'undecorated'. It sites quite far back on my head. 

And above is the 'trim' pinned on. What do you think...does it work or is it too fussy?

In case anyone wants to know this was basically my process.

Here are some additional images now I've finished the bonnet.

 And to show how the 'lace cap' looks underneath.

Embroidered Fichu - completed

So I started making the fichu a while back mentioned here. And now its finally finished. Well I say finished but there is room to add more detail in the future.

 This is the entire fichu laid out.

 A close up of the large shell and swags of laurel leaves.

and my glossy 'shells' dotted around the material.

Regency Dress II - Nearly there!

Well nearly finished....just doing buttonholes on the open robe now. Even got my accessories together. I will wear the black shoes, with matching umbrella and fan for the promenade, but the grey ones for the dancing to go with my grey 'grecian hairband'.

I used the burda pattern for the 'yellow' dress. But changed the placement of the elastic on the  neckline.

 And instead of using elastic for the sleeves I pleated them.

Close up of pleats on sleeve from inside

 And thought I'd show my pleats at back of the open robe.

In these pics my open robe was just pinned and the hem on the dress not sewn. I hope next post about the dress will be on location.

EDIT: Wanted to add some images of the open robe compleated

Going Dotty....an unscheduled post

I have a confession to make. I went to the fabric shop just to buy a few essentials...and came out with a blue and white polkadot cotton and plain blue cotton, 3.5 metres of each. I just couldn't resist.

Now after seeing the latest retro butterick release I'm wondering should I use it to make butterick 5813 or simplicity 3673?

And how would I use the fabric...go two tone or dotty all over?

(yes I know everyone thinks I'm 'dotty' anyway lol!)

Our survey said....fabric choices

So far I've stuck with cottons and poly cottons, playing it safe. I know I need to branch out and try other fabrics. But...I am terrible at recognizing fabrics, their qualities, sewing difficulty, treatment and what projects they will suit.

My first step I decided was to do a survey, of my wardrobe. Taking particular note of the items I like to wear.

It seems viscose, cotton, and blends of viscose come top, with polyester blends second.

Now I have questions:
viscose...is it always stretchy? Is it nice to sew with? Easy to get hold of?
Why can I wear polyester blends but anything 100% polyester is left unworn?

Oh, and I got some 'vintage' buttons given to me.

Aren't they just asking for duck egg blue fabric & white piping?