"Resign yourself, Catherine! Shops must be visited! Money must be spent! Do you think you could bear it?" - Northanger Abbey

Monday, January 27, 2014

Riding Habit an Idea

I saw this painting and instantly thought...11th doctor riding habit. If you changed the jacket to tweed and the hat is quite fez-ish.

I do like the practicality of the cut of them as a garment. There doesn't seem to be too major a variation in styles between the era's. If you were a lady time traveler who wanted to fit in with earths history. It could be as good as the doctor's suit to fit in.

Did I mention I love his purple costume...might have a bash at it for a winter event one day.

I think the above is more achievable for me for now. The hat is blue felt decorated with grey netting and a few 'clockface' buttons. The jacket is blue velvet (from my shop bought wardrobe). The shirt is the one I made for my 8th doctor cosplay, removable collar so I could have it wing or collarless. The skirt is a blue wool blend. The boots are riding type boots.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

HSF 2014 - Challenge Planning

Been working out how I can combine HSF '14 and my cosplay plans. And my fabric buying embargo. I've limited myself to only one visit to fabric shop per month....my fabric stash is getting too big. lol!

#1: Make Do & Menddue Wed 15 Jan. For this Making do & Mending a failed project into a Dorothy dress.

#2: Innovation - due Sat 1 Feb.  Bustle pad.

#3: Pink - due Sat 15 Feb.  Pink bodiced petticoat. I know usually they are white but I like the thought of a pink one. Or a pink dress, or waist petticoat. I seem to have finally decided on finishing off a UFO my lady mary blouse for the pink challenge.

#4: Under it All – due Sat 1 March. A new chemise.

#5: Bodice - 15 March. Make a bodice – a garment that covers the upper body.  Bustle era bodice.

#6: Fairytale – due Tue 1 April. At the moment I'm thinking night dress...but that may change.

#7: Tops & Toes – due Tue 15 April.  Create an accessory that goes on your head, or on your feet.
I'm going to try and make some spats using festive attires tutorial.
I also have plans to upcycle a pair of plain ballet pumps into regency dance shoes. Sueding the soles, adding a buckle and ribbon.

#8: UFOs & PHDs – due Thur 1 May.
My green regency pellise (its a bit of an epic fail really the fabric was such a pain to work with). Or velvet belt.

#9: Black and White – due Thur 15 May.  Draw on the opposite ends of the shade spectrum to create something in black and white, or black or white.
Black foundation skirt maybe with white piping or ruffles? Or maybe a edwardian blouse. Not sure will decide for sure later.

#10: Art – due Sun 1 June.  Make your own masterpiece based on a work of art.
I hope it counts but I have this book and thought the dress on the cover was really nice. I think its 1928 so need to reserch the style I need.

#11: The Politics of Fashion – due Sun 15 June.
Will be busy so missing this one out.

#12: Shape & Support – due Tue 1 July.  Make a garment that changes the silhouette of the human form through shaping and support.
I could do short stays re-do....but I suspect I might be busy with other sewing at the time.

#13: Under $10 – due Tue 14 July.  Whip up a fabulous item for under $10.
$10....I think that's about £6. gonna be really hard to do. Might have to have a ponder.

#14: Paisley & Plaid – due Fri 1 August.
Always like a plaid...but I have had my eye on using some paisley in something...might decorate the white regency muslin shawl I made.

#15: The Great Outdoors – due Fri 15 August.
Mud in August?! Oh well, might be good oppertunity for my knickerbocker/plus fours to get made up.

#16: Terminology – due Mon 1 September.  Explore the etymology of fashion by make something defined in the Great Historical Fashion & Textile Glossary .
Need to do a little reserch and see what I could make there.

#17: Yellow - due Mon 15 September.
I have a yellow regency dress to make for a friend.

#18: Poetry in Motion - due Wed 1 October  Find inspiration for a garment in poetry and song.
Well there's a few folk songs I might be able to find something for... but I'm leaning towards something 'nautical'. There seems to be pleanty of folk songs where the gals run off to sea in disguise. Or maybe The yellow handkerchief form 'flash company'.

#19: HSF Inspiration - due Wed 15 October.  Be inspired by one of the challengers item from HSF ’13 or HSF challenges 1-18 to make your own fabulous item.
Something I'll think about nearer the time.

#20: Alternative Universe – due Sat 1 November.  Create a garment from an alternative universe: fantasy, steampunk, dieselpunk, etc.  Your item can be perfectly historically accurate within our own universe as well.
Mawhahahaha! Ok few ideas for this...I'll see what I need at the time. I'm thinking trenzalore skirt.

#21: Re-do – due Sat 15 November.
Will pick this closer to the time.

#22: Fort-nighliers Choice – due Mon 1 December.  This one is up to you!  In June I’ll ask for suggestions for a theme, and we’ll vote to pick the one you most want to do as our 22nd Challenge of the year.
Depends what gets chosen.

#23: Modern History – due Mon 15 December.  Make something historical or historically inspired that is wearable in an everyday context.
I do this all the time. :) So I will see what I need closer to the date. Probably a blouse or dress.

#24: All that Glitters – due Thur 1 January.
Sparkly, hmmmm....not really a sparkle person.

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Bustle Era Cosplay

The Doctor: Guess what I've got Donna.
[Pulls out a large remote device from his overcoat]
Donna: How did they fit in there?
The Doctor: They're bigger on the inside.

So the main thought with this ensemble was pockets...lots of them. Now I liked the thought of making a female sherlock victorian outfit.
 I liked the fashion plate below especially as she's holding some glasses

But then I like pinstripes...and I was looking at perhaps a female tenth doctor victorian outfit.
 The striped apron and bodice over a plain skirt. Low neck but with option of a fichu to fill it in.
Again striped fabric over a plain foundation skirt. I love the elegant simplicity. The sleeve length amount of ruffles. And the hat as well on and that she has an umbrella...perfect for an english summer. ;)

For all of them I'll need the right layers...and the right fabrics. I don't want to be perspiring all day. lol! Practicality is key.
I'll need bustle, petticoat, stays, chemise, foundation skirt, bodice and a swagged apron. Now for calculating the cost. The bustle, chemise and petticoat I can make from my stash. The foundation skirt, 'apron' and bodice (with lining, boning etc.) Looking at the yardages for the proper patterns. I'll probably need about 3-4 meters for the skirt (which I'll also use as the lining fabric), 3 for the bodice and apron? Not sure how much boning needed?

Anyway...the game, is on. ;)

Sunday, January 12, 2014

The People of Trenzalore (Costumes) - Random Musing

I LOVE the costumes they wear. The colours and embroidery. I can't quite figure out though what era they reflect closest?  There's something of the 'folk costume' about it.

I particularly like the coat and skirt here...along with the white petticoat (and is that a tartan apron?). Reminds me a bit of Romana's outfit from 'Full Circle'.
Its got me thinking how would you recreate that skirt...at least I know I could do that. Red felt like a poodle skirt? Or a wool mix? I wonder what wool is like to embroider.

What era would you say those outfits are from? The bonnet is Regency-ish. The waistline looks natural rather than empireline.
Could the 'coat' be a bedgown with apron?

Thursday, January 9, 2014

HSF 2014 - Challenge #1 - Make Do & Mend (Dorothy Dress)

The Challenge: #1 Make do & Mend
Fabric: Gingham
Pattern: None. Self Drafted.
Year: 1939/1900
Notions: Plastic boning. Zipper. Buttons. RikRac Trim.
How historically accurate is it? Depends when its accurate to...I like to think its close to the film version.
Hours to complete: 15 Hours.
First worn: N/A
Total cost: N/A (made from my stash)

The book The Wonderful Wizard of Oz was printed in 1900, the film The Wizard of Oz was released in 1939. The film looked like it was a 1930's view of the 1900s outfits. I didn't have any silver shoes...so I went for the film costume as my reference.

Well my kirtle didn't turn out as planned. So I thought Make Do & Mend. I'll reuse the bodice and also use up some of my fabric stash.
Making do with the fabric I had available and mending my mistake with the bodice. This was my first time using boning so I didn't know quite how to place them for best effect.

Bodice before decoration

I used the red gingham as lining. And used my blue gingham as my exterior fabric. I made the skirts slightly A-line and gathered at the waist. I'm going to use a zipper for the back for ease of dressing.

Now I like the long length which would be more 1900's style...but as I want to use this for dancing it will have to be the shorter length.

I put a few tucks in and then a wide hem. That way if later I decide I want it long I can let it down.

 It's shown here on dress form with my 50's petticoat just so you could see the tucks properly.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

2014 Sewing Goals

So yes as everyone else seems to be doing one I think I should get organised and at least have some vague goals for my 2014 sewing scedule.

1. I need to complete my Romana Cosplay.
2. I feel like I'm ready to have a go at making stays or a corset (historical of course) using boning. But what era to do?
3. Improve my tailoring skills. I'm still not getting the finish I want on jackets...it just always looks ameturish.
4. More embroidery. I enjoy it but I don't do much really.
5. Keep control of my fabric stash. Must stop buying and storing for a future project...if I buy it its because I will use it WITHIN that month.
6. Be practical. No more 'party' dresses. I need stuff I will wear everyday. And regually review my wardrobe status and adjust as nessasary.
7. Make an item of clothing for someone other than myself...to improve my fitting skills.

Thursday, January 2, 2014

In a Tudor-ish Mood

So I started off thinking I could use the pattern from the tudor tailor book and make a smock to use as a night dress. And its ended up with me looking at my fabric stash and thinking...I think I could use some of that up making a kirtle.

I'm not sure about my nightdress collar

It just looks and feels awkward. I'm contemplating removing it and just adding a frill.

The kirtle bodice is still in the fitting stages. I just can't get the right shape. But then I found the book a little light on visual instructions. And I'm not exactly ideally shaped for the tudor era...too curvey.