HSF 2014 - Challenge #5 - Bodice (bustle era bodice) EPIC FAIL!

The Challenge: #5 Bodice

Fabric: polycotton, calico

Pattern: none. self drafted.

Year: 1880's

Notions: boning, buttons, hook & eye

How historically accurate is it? N/A

Hours to complete: N/A

First worn:N/A

Total cost:N/A

So as part of the overall ensemble I'm making I need a bodice. Not having a commercial pattern on hand I decided to use the instructions in 'Draping Period Costumes' to create one from scratch.

 In my toile I changed a waist dart into a seam so I can hide a pocket there.

 Initially I tried to put in two darts but only seem to be able to put in one without messing up the fit.
But I needed 2 darts for the accuracy...so after getting some help from other HSF participants I decided to try it on myself wearing the right foundations. Managed to take out front waist seam and create 2 bust darts.

I wanted pockets...lots of pockets as it would save carrying a large bag around all day. Transfered the fabric pattern to paper...ready to work on the next stage.

That was when I realised if I wanted to do the faux waistcoat I'd need to change one of the darts into a princess seam.

Now to cut out the interlining which would also be my toile.
 I managed to make it look ok but when I transferred to calico it just didn't look right.

Not sure what was wrong. So I took it apart and started again...

 I used the trick I'd read about taping in the bones on a mock up to try it on.

The shape was looking closer to what I wanted. It looks better on me than the dressform.

Made a few alterations to the neckline and armhole. Then added the sleeves.

Then after double checking the fit. I undid all my hard work and unpicked the seams. Ironed out the peices ready to use to flatline the bodice.

I then tacked the main seams together and pinned others so I can check the fit again before I sew in place.

I ended up needing to split the back so it would fit over the extra padding (see above). I'll also need to add a waist stay in addition to the bones to keep the bodice waistline in place or else I get some gapping.

 I also pinned my bustle drapery on to see how it would look.

The bodice was looking ok...still think its a bit stocky queen victoria in shape.

Looks ok from the side but from the front....it looks awful.

This was the point at which I gave up. No amount of tweaking and reworking was going to make it look acceptable. The skirt was all wrong. The bodice made me look dumpy. the neckline was wonkey and I'd cut too much off the length.
It goes on the FAIL pile.