"Resign yourself, Catherine! Shops must be visited! Money must be spent! Do you think you could bear it?" - Northanger Abbey

Friday, March 14, 2014

HSF 2014 - Challenge #5 - Bodice (1790's 'Jumps')

The Challenge: #5 Bodice
Fabric: Calico
Pattern: I scaled up the pattern from Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen.
Year: 1790's
Notions: boning, eyelets, bias binding, lacing.
How historically accurate is it? well the pattern is based on exhaunt corset c.1790 held at Hereford Museum. So the 'cut' is right. But I used modern boning, metal eyelets and partially sewed on machine.
Hours to complete: Took me several evenings.
First worn:
Total cost:

 I started by enlarging the pattern in the book by 200%. Measured the 'waist' 29" so almost perfect. Added seam allowances and cut out a toile from leftover polycotton fabric.
Adjusted the side seams slightly and took some fabric off the centre front. Then used that to cut out my 'fashion fabric' some calico.
I added in the boning channels. Sewn on the machine for speed. Once I'd added in the bones I sewed up the side seams and added the straps. then came the tricky bit. I started trying to bias bind the 'tabs' but it did my fingers in hand sewing it. (Yes I'm not following the instructions in the book). So I turned over each tab and did a small hem. I did however bias bind the top edge. Started by hand sewing but my fingers were so sore I finished on the machine.
I then used a kit of adding eyelets - the kind you hit with a hammer- first to the straps and then to the CF.

I wanted to spiral lace it... so I tried to off set the eyelets....unfortunately I wasn't good at getting them to align. Every time I hit the hammer the fabric moved. lol!
 I then laced up the stays on the dress form over my new chemise.
 The back looked good although I think the CB bone needed to be longer.
I added my petticoat on top to finish off the look. Of course I can't lace it shut on the dress form but looks like a good enough fit.

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