Vintage Casual - some thoughts

So I was reading Gerties post about Modern/Vintage and it got me thinking...
I've never seen the whole modern V vintage thing when it comes to casual clothes.
I analized why:
1. I hate jeans. Every pair I have ever owned have ended up discarded. I do have issues with trousers in general not fitting being short in the leg, big in hips but small in waist. The only trousers I've had sucess with are highwaisted ones which are [suprise, surprise] vintage style.
2. I consider skirts as casual. Especially in winter when paired with woolly tights.
3. I think twin set and pearls is casual.
4. I generally wear flats, heels are for special occasions
5. 'Vintage Style' is not a uniform or a costume or something for special occasion (for me) its just a label applied to what I'm comfortable wearing.
6. I don't like to buy/make clothes I only wear once. I am creating a capsule wardrobe that can crossover and be used for various activities depending on how I accessorise.

My idea of a casual skirt

When thinking about a casual vintage look I reccommend looking at photo's of normal people from the era your interested in rather than just 'hollywood' stars.

Though I might suggest some ideas for casual:

Source: 20thcenturygirls.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Knitwear casual...great for winter

Source: google.com via Lady on Pinterest

Glam casual

Source: omgthatdress.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Perfect for lounging round the house

Source: pickurselfup.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Spring Casual perhaps?

Source: fashions1modes.bloguez.com via Lady on Pinterest

Summer casual?

Source: classichollywoodforever.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Vintage but could pass for modern? That's the look I'd like to go for really....just got to be brave and make a pair of trousers.

Anyway,  hope that helps.

Making drop waists flattering

I like the concept of a dropped waist but being short in the leg with big hips and small waist a true drop waist doesn't suit me. Quite frankly if I don't show my waist I look fat. With my 1920's inspired pinafore in red tartan I'm planning on making the top fitted and have a waistband that starts on my natural waist and ends just below it to give that 'dropped waist' feel.

Saw the new butterick patterns....and have got it into my head to do a 'fake' dropwaist by using a yoke on a skirt.
(Like B5858 but it says its for knits. I can't sew knits.) I think it will look ok on me.

My Idea of what it will look like

I moved a dart - major achievement!

Just a little bonus post for you all. I've been wondering why my tops never look right despite choosing the right size etc. It dawned on me yesterday. The darts were wrong.

It mean tops slide 'up' all the time. I even noticed my (non knit) RTW clothes did it as well.

So first I took the pattern for a top I wanted to make (the portrait blouse from GNBFBS) and did my trial and error method. See the long dart in image. Problem was it wasn't accurate enough.

So I looked up the 'proper' way of doing it. Traced the existing dart and pivoted it up to the place I'd found using trial and error method. Taped it in place.

Tried it out and tissue fitted. Seemed ok to me.

Next step is to make a wearable mock up of the blouse.

On a side note I did raise the neckline and will be adding a peter pan collar and sleeves (added about 1.5cm to the armhole- hope that's right).

Style 2769 - winter blouse

I've started on my winter blouse using my fave pattern 'style 2769'. Using the view top left.

3/4 length sleeves and stand up collar (2). I was going to do the turned back collar but couldn't be bothered to cut out all the extra pieces. I will be adding a pocket too like in the view bottom right (4).

The majority of the blouse will be the polkadot material but collar facings and sleeve cuffs with be in the plain cream.

What gets me with this pattern every time is the instructions aren't in a logical order. Seems to jump about a bit. But I do like the paper pattern itself.

So I started on the sleeves. It took a bit of experimentation as the instructions confused me when it came to adding a cuff to the sleeve.

Now I added one sleeve to the bodice and its looking a bit awkward. I'm not sure how it should sit. the pitch seems off.

Maybe I have done the old two left/right arm sleeves thing again?

Fitting Shells, Slopers and creativity

Butterick 5627

Right here is goes. 

The frustrated fashion designer in me keep seeing dresses/tops etc. but not having patterns for them. Be it modern, vintage or historical. 

So I was thinking what is the best route…a fitting shell, or a sloper? How do I draft a bodice from scratch?

I am getting more adventurous with adapting existing patterns…although more trial and error than maths. 

But I'd just like a basic pattern that fits me with 'no frills' that I can use as a basic starting point and then change necklines etc.

Should I buy a commercial pattern? Or draft from measurements (although I'm terrible with maths)?

Or just pin fabric on me and go trial and error system again?

Or should I use the 'sultry sheath' patten from the book  have to create the 'sloper'? After making the pencil skirt I already know that fits.

Which method do you use?

Challenge Contest - Refashion / Repurpose

Glutton for punishment entering a contest when I have other projects on the go and know I won't win. But I have so much that I could refashion (or upcycle as the word of the moment is).
So far have had several 'ideas'....but only have time to make one.

1. Make skirt from pillowcase (not enough matching pilowcases)
2. Make a day dress from long sleeveless maxi dress  (as dress is tiered can't get enough fabric out of it)
3. Use frock coat/jacket/curtain to make matching waistcoat and skirt. (Blue velvet) Old fabric is too delicate.
4. Make hat from T-shirt (Only have on T-shirt and its wrong colour)
5. Make a skirt from old pair of trousers.

Went for number 5!

Cut up the pair of blue linen trousers...pinned them sewed up to a point so that there is a V shaped gap front and back ready to be filled with fabric.

Original pair of trousers

 I've drafted (I hope) the pattern for a gore to insert. I'd like more of a edwardian walking skirt look at the back but not sure how to do it.

Update 1:
Have decided to look for fabric that matches the facing fabric on the linen trousers. So a pale grey and blue stripe.

Update 2:
ok..I went to fabric shop and got distracted. No striped grey linen but they did have some broderie anglaise. So I bought that instead. Bought enough to make a blouse out of it too.

Cut out the fabric pinned in place and sewed. I've only done one side so far.

And It needs pressing.

Took me a bit to figure out how to sew it in so the seams were on the inside.

Update 3 - Finished!

Hemmed and pressed here is the finished skirt.

Front

Back

Side

Comments welcome.