HSF 2014 - Challenge #6 - Fairytale ('Edwardian Tinkerbell')

The Challenge: #6 Fairytale - Edwardian Tinkerbell

Fabric: Green polycotton.

Pattern: I used Mccalls waistcoat pattern as a base then modified it significantly.

Year: 1895-1910 Going for Edwardian look to coincide with when the play was around.

Notions: Boning, hook and eye

How historically accurate is it? Well the fabric is wrong. But I think it gives a nice look. I wasn't aiming for a specific date more the feel of the era as of course this is 'fairytale'. I doubt Tinkerbell would be reading the fashion magazines. But she might have seen humans from a distance and tried to copy.

Hours to complete: I lost track but it was quite quick after I had burst of inspiration. Wanted to do a shirt with peter pan collar...but ran out of time.

First worn: To take photos.

Total cost: I'd say at a guess £8?
Its worn with this skirt and this shirt.

And because I couldn't resist a little photoshopping....

HSF Challenge #19 Wood, Metal, Bone - Bow Clip

The Challenge: #19 Wood Metal Bone

Fabric: Cotton twill

Pattern: Self Drafted

Year: N/A

Notions: metal clip, wire.
 
How historically accurate is it? Not sure. this was one of those I have no time left I'll throw something together project. I thought bow ties are cool. And there seems to have been some kinda bow in history so I'll do that.

Hours to complete: 1 hour.

First worn: 21st september

Total cost: Just made from scraps. So can't really judge price.

Edwardian Ensemble - Lace & Bows

I've really surprised myself...I used a modern shirt pattern that fitted as my bodice base...then used images of edwardian patterns like in Frances Grimble's Edwardian Modiste to modify the bodice and redraft the collar and sleeves. This was only ment to be a muslin mock up...but its turned out perfectly wearable. (the proper one will be in white with a red 'bow' and a little more lace insertion.)

With sleeves and back pinned in place.

 The bow was originally an idea to cover up a little error I made with the collar. I think I need a collar stand and then the collar or else I end up with an unsupported 'gap' in the centre front.

For the skirt I used sense & Sensibility beartrix skirt pattern. I did it in green polycotton as originally intended to use it as a petticoat under the proper skirt. But I rather like it as a skirt in its own right.

  I decided to add a little cameo to the 'bow' on my blouse. I erm...superglued it on. Hope it stays ok.

Last thing I need to do is make a belt/swiss waist and finish trimming the hat.

Downton Abbey Blouse - Version 1 - Drafting the blouse

The first blouse I'm going to remake is Lady Mary's from Downton.

I've made a few modifications. My sleeves are not 'cut on' in this version (this is working out the fit and as I'm not that familiar with how to adjust kimono sleeves I decided to go for set in sleeves). Its made out of different material -as already stated as this is a trial version- so no lace insertion. but I might add some tucks to the centre pannel.

I used the pattern I'd created for my edwardian blouse and added length to it, changed the collar. Also moved the opening to the front from the back. The collar was borrowed from another pattern which I then modified.

For some reason I ended up with a collar that stood up at the back reather than laying flat. So I just went with it.

On left is modified to how I want it to be. On Right is original.

I still need to make a few changes. The collar wasn't quite long or rectangular enough so I will recut.
I also need to cut out the sleeves. There will be opening on the side of the panel at the front. Buttons probably or snaps.

Any comments or advice welcome.

Downton Abbey Blouse - Some thoughts on autumn sewing

Yes I know I'm a bit late...others have already commented about these blouses. Its the colder weather it makes me think of autumnal colours. ;)

I prefer lady ediths version. The colours I think would suit me. Also I have a green skirt now that will match. I did wonder if this pattern would do? Or this pattern (the blue check one)? Or this vogue pattern View B with shortened sleeve?
Or check this out (page 59) I know its a 1920's pattern but it looks similar except square rather than round neckline.

Which colour combo do you prefer?

But I maybe I should be brave and try to draft my own using gerties portrait blouse as my starting point? I could borrow sleeves from another pattern. Or use my now fully tested edwardian blouse pattern as a base and modify the neckline. I can't tell is it over the head or button up the back?

The second one it the above blouse. It looks very like the folkwear armistice blouse. But I think I could probably draft it myself...its just the collar that bamboozels me. I really need a book/course just on drafting and sewing collars. I think I'd have the buttons like in the folkwear pattern but do faux buttons on other side to match.
I really like lace insertion now I've discovered how to do it. Now I need to find the right belt....

Doctor Who Costume - Fitting the skirt (petticoat)

I'm making a Edwardian skirt to go with the ensemble but this skirt needs a petticoat. So I'm using the petticoat as a test run for the pattern. Only difference will be that I'll add a flounce to the petticoat and maybe some lace decoration.
The finished petticoat will fit into the historical sew fortnightly challenge. I pleated the back. Seen here the waistband closures are missing and the hemming has not been done.

 

You can see here its worn with the toile of my blouse. Self drafted edwardian blouse - well I took a shirt pattern that fitted and modified the peices to reflect period pattern peices on this site. This is the mock up shown with beatrix skirt (WIP). Just working out how to do the collar. I think it needs to be cut on the bias. Will do the proper one in a white polycotton and use sleeves from my beatrix jacket pattern. I also need to add another half and inch to the back peices (and a facing) for a proper overlap for the buttons. 

Doctor Who Outfit - Fitting the Jacket - Part 2

Having cut out the fashion fabric and hand basted all the seams....I then decided to try it on the dressform to check the fit. Particually with the collar attached (as many of you know I ALWAYS have collar issues).

You may note I haven't interfaced the collar. I know *shock horror* but with my interfaced collar woes I decided not to interface.

Now I wasn't sure if the back and front princess seams needed to line up...but I was getting excess material sticking up around my shoulder blade/armhole area.

So I took the back seam in a little (see image above) and it seemed to solve that problem. Along with altering the shoulder seams slightly.
Not sure if this was correct...but it looks ok to me?
Anyway next step is to sew the rest up then try fitting the sleeves.

Doctor Who Outfit - Fitting the Jacket

So for my Jacket I'm using Sense and Sensibility Beatrix jacket pattern.

I cut out the largest size in my lining fabric then used that as my toile. basting and pinning to work out the fit.

 Firstly I pinned it to tweak the fit as usual took a big chunk out the waist, but kept the width hip and bust.

Above is with it all basted and coller pinned in and sleeves.
I have to admit having not made a two part sleeve before I tried to do my usual and match up the seamline...errrrrrmmm...this was wrong thing to do. I got a backwards sleeve. lol!
Soonfixed it though...lesson learned. I'm thinking I need to do something to stop the gathered sleevecap collapsing.
I'm also going to add two buttons one above each of the back pleats.

Now I have to unpick all my lovely basting so I can use the lining as pattern to cut out the fashion fabric. Takes forever. And somehow work out how to do the contrast collar.

Petticoats, flounces and ruffles

Otherwise known as how much do you want your skirt to stick out. lol! So I was originally intending to make some bloomers.

But my lack of experience and knowledge when it comes to trousers has let me down. I can't draft a pair no matter how hard I try. So what to do for Challenge 3 & 4?
A petticoat. I do need one as my skirts and dresses are looking a little deflated because I can't wear my old one because I've lost inches off my waist its become a hipster skirt and shows underneath the skirts in an unbecoming way. So a new petticoat it is. I need something that will work in several eras so my research begins.

Things it needs to have are:
Smooth top of petticoat with ruffles confined to bottom edges
Either drawstring or elastic waistline (to prevent problem with waistline changes)
It shouldn't show underneath skirts when I stand still. (wondering if I could add ties in ribbon to adjust length as needed.)


I like these....

Source: dollhousebettie.com via Lady on Pinterest

Source: Uploaded by user via Lady on Pinterest

And I notice these are quite short.

Source: images.search.yahoo.com via Lady on Pinterest

I like the top one in particular so I'm guessing that's an A-line with a flounce?
Then I like the umf you get from this...

Source: diaryofaseamstress.blogspot.co.uk via Lady on Pinterest

And there's always a corded petticoat

Source: madamemodiste.dreamwidth.org via Lady on Pinterest

I also like this but a little shorter?

Source: rubylane.com via Lady on Pinterest

I've like something that gives me opportunity to embellish.