Vintage Casual - some thoughts

So I was reading Gerties post about Modern/Vintage and it got me thinking...
I've never seen the whole modern V vintage thing when it comes to casual clothes.
I analized why:
1. I hate jeans. Every pair I have ever owned have ended up discarded. I do have issues with trousers in general not fitting being short in the leg, big in hips but small in waist. The only trousers I've had sucess with are highwaisted ones which are [suprise, surprise] vintage style.
2. I consider skirts as casual. Especially in winter when paired with woolly tights.
3. I think twin set and pearls is casual.
4. I generally wear flats, heels are for special occasions
5. 'Vintage Style' is not a uniform or a costume or something for special occasion (for me) its just a label applied to what I'm comfortable wearing.
6. I don't like to buy/make clothes I only wear once. I am creating a capsule wardrobe that can crossover and be used for various activities depending on how I accessorise.

My idea of a casual skirt

When thinking about a casual vintage look I reccommend looking at photo's of normal people from the era your interested in rather than just 'hollywood' stars.

Though I might suggest some ideas for casual:

Source: 20thcenturygirls.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Knitwear casual...great for winter

Source: google.com via Lady on Pinterest

Glam casual

Source: omgthatdress.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Perfect for lounging round the house

Source: pickurselfup.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Spring Casual perhaps?

Source: fashions1modes.bloguez.com via Lady on Pinterest

Summer casual?

Source: classichollywoodforever.tumblr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Vintage but could pass for modern? That's the look I'd like to go for really....just got to be brave and make a pair of trousers.

Anyway,  hope that helps.

What era suits me? A look at retro styles.

Two posts have prompted me to write this. 1) was yorkshire does vintage's 'a beginners guide to vintage shopping-what's your era?' and 2) A comment on PR "I love retro but unfortunately don't have the figure for it." 
Plus my own recent pondering as I decide on my winter wardrobe sewing projects.

First off I do believe there is a era for everyone whatever your shape. You just need to find it and make it work for you.
Secondly fashion is quite cyclical. 

Prediction for fashion shapes (women's fashion)

This is my theory. That there are 4 'shapes' for womens dress and that usually go in a cycle. Haven't gone too far back in history. These are very general silhouettes. It goes Box shape, Y shape, Inverted V (sharp hourglass), inverted U (soft hourglass).

Of course this doesn't include variation in waist and hemline hight. You just have to find the 'shape' that flatters you the most. There is always a way of wearing a retro style that will make it work for you. And unless your looking to be very strict about which 'era' you are going for as regards look there's no rule against mixing and matching. For example having a 40's blouse with a 50's skirt. I've mixed 90's tops with 2000's trousers before and no one has noticed so I'm sure the same applied in the past. ;)

Apologies for my quick sketches...some of the proportions came out a bit wrong.

Don't be fooled by idealized photo's either. There were people of all shapes and sizes in all eras and they had to wear the clothes somehow. lol!

Things like for example a V neck added to a 20's dress and the dropped waist and hinting at the natural waist can make it easer for a curvy-er sort to wear the straight up in down fashions. Reducing fullness of those 50's skirts but still keeping that soft 'U' shape can work to reduce the 'cupcake' effect or even try a pencil skirt. Sleeves are also important. Reducing/increasing the proportion of the sleeves can help balance the top half out.

Disclaimer: for the purposes of this post 'retro' is referring to something new made based on something old. And I don't by any means claim to be an expert. This is just from my POV.

Things you notice when you start sewing...

Ever since I've started sewing for myself my shopping habits have changed. I look at shop bought garments in a completely different way. I thought I'd draw up a list.

1. You start looking at fibre content and will dismiss items on basis of fabric quality. I tend to buy cotton, viscose and polyester only if its in a blend.

2. You check the stitching on seams & hems. The amount of times I've rejected items on basis of the collar has just been overlocked in a scruffy manner.

3. You look out for things like facings, linings and pockets.

4. You look at an item and instead of just thinking 'ooh pretty'....you think "princess seams, lining, pleated skirt...quality I'm having that."

5. You know the value of the fabric and the time it takes. And compare it to what you would make and decide you could make something similar for less, forgetting you don't have the time coz of a zillion other projects you've got in the pipeline.

6. You don't go clothes shopping very often....you go fabric/pattern shopping instead.

Can anyone add to this? Do you agree with my list?

1940's & 1950's Fashion

1940's & 1950's Fashion.
I'm hoping to go 40's/50's style for the summer this year.

I have already made my first 50's wraparound dress (Well nearly...I will get round at adding the closures eventually) and I have 2 shirtdresses I use for my 40's look.

Now on my list to make:

• 40's skirt from this pattern
• 50's circle skirt using the skirt pattern piece from my wraparound dress

Doing some research (Which involves googling and looking through videos of the era on british pathé) I've looked at lots of dresses and I've come to conclusion I don't like the 'pin up' style dresses that you can buy. I have one halterneck one and find it emphasizes what I don't want emphasized. I'm looking for everyday rather than a 'party' dress.

What I do like is the Horrockses dresses. I don't think there is one I've seen that I don't like. They are so stylish.

I like this cut and pattern

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O121989/dress-with-belt/

I've even discovered there is a free pattern
http://blog.horrocksesfashions.co.uk/2011/08/download-your-free-horrockses-dress-pattern/
that you can make from duvet and pillowcase.
Now that's something to try. Although on a cheap bedlinen set first....in case I mess it up.

Transition Fashions - a slight ramble

My favorite fashions in history have always been the transition between eras and styles. When the fashionable silhouette is being defined and the differences aren't so extreme.

For example I'm preferring the 1790's-1800's period of fashion over the 1700's-1780's and 1810-1820 just simply because the earlier stuff seems cumbersome (although I do like the polonaise skirts - If I could incorporate that kinda skirt into a modern style  I would.) and the later stuff just doesn't suit me as the waistlines are too high.
I generally prefer clothes that sit on the natural waist...or close as possible to it.

I'm noticing a transition in modern clothes even now. Couple of years ago all the smock tops were 'empire line'.
Over the past years the waistline is moving down. I'm even seeing the very first appearances of drop waist on tops and dresses. And am so pleased the midi skirt is being sold again. I am not a mini skirt person.

****

I've been watching the manor reborn.
And their approach to the refurbishment kinda reflects my approach to historical costume.

If an item was used in a practical way in the past its better to make it practical today (even if its not strictly accurate to the Nth degree) so it can be used rather than stuck behind glass/in the back of the wardrobe because its impossible to wear. Especially if a lot of work goes into it.