Updating an old dress -1780 to 1790s

This shows how much my skills have improved. I needed a 'georgian' dress so I dug out my old red one I made ages ago. I've never been happy with how it fitted but it was one of my first attempts at making up a pattern from patterns of fashion. Was meant to be circa 1780s in style. I removed the lace from the neckline and cuffs. Then took off the hook n eye which clearly was causing gaping.
Next thing I did was try it on over stays and pin the front tightly. Then chalked on where I needed to cut down the neckline and where I wanted the 'zone' front to be. Then I pinned along the lines.

You can see the boning is making the bodice sit oddly.

The blue line is where the neckline would be. The green where the contrast fabric panel needed to go.

This was the point where I removed the boning I had in the front of the bodice as it was throwing off the shape. I also unpicked the skirt for a couple of inches. I traced the shape of the front and then added a seam allowance.

 I appliqued the striped fabric on by hand. Tucking the fabric round the front of the bodice.

I then stitched the skirt back on further back. It can still be polonaised or as is.

In the meantime I made a striped petticoat to match the zone front. The only thing left is to sew the hook n eyes back on.

I've even made a matching hat. Currently debating whether to add a sash or not? What do you think?

Straw Boater to 18th Century Bergere

I know I've been quiet for a while. Blog posts take a long time to write and I've been busy busy busy. Anyway....I thought I'd do a sorta tutorial. I say sorta because its not that indepth. lol!

It started with a hat, not just any hat, a straw boater in a sale. Ignore the price, I got it even cheaper because it was broken. Hence my erm...cunning plan.

I got out the seam ripper and began to unravel it from the outside edge. Originally intending a 'missy'/mary poppins sort of hat.

Hence why I kept a lot of the height. Started sewing then changed my mind as I realised I could get a bergere out of it. Ooops, now I had to unstitch where I'd got to sewing it. :(

So now the crown was shallower but I kept its shape and width.

I used steam from the iron to help shape the first few 'rounds' into a flat brim. And set the rest of the straw to make it easier to sew. (It really hurts your fingers sewing by hand.)

I got 90% of the brim done before my hands were cramping up and I couldn't hand sew the rest, thus I resorted to using the machine. I found this trickier as you have less control.

 Ta Da! Finished hat....well nearly finished. I pinned a few ribbons to see how it sat. (When flat it reminds me of this painting of Miss Constable 1787)

But I still need to line it - as the straw messes up my hair and makes me itch - and trim it.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #22 - Menswear (18thC Shirt)

The Challenge: #22 Menswear

Fabric: Linen & cotton

Pattern: Self drafted using knowledge of making shifts and images on pinterest of exhaunt shirts

Year: 18th century, but could pass for earlier and later as its ment to be a generic pirate shirt

Notions: Buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it? Well I used linen which is correct fabric, I used period shirts as reference, but I machine sewed the main seams for speed. I also found I didn't have enough linen so I had to make cuff and collar out of 100% cotton.

Hours to complete: Took me two days of sewing mixture of machine and hand sewing.
First worn: for fittings

Total cost: Approx. £20

Notes: This item although its a "man's" shirt will be worn by me (female). Its for a pirate costume I have an idea for...plus a poet style shirt comes in handy for different outfits and it would make a cosy nighty.

I didn't have enough linen to make the whole shirt. So the collar and cuffs are 100% cotton instead.

Added a little button on the front so I can wear the nack open if I want too.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #21 - Redo

The Challenge: #21 Redo - Fairytale #6

Fabric: red poly silk taffeta with aubtle stripe, Cotton lining.

Pattern: Self drafted using Butterick 4254 (View B) as a starting point before draping on the stand.
Year: 1780-1795

Notions: boning, embroidery floss, ribbon, lace, self covered buttons.

How historically accurate is it? Its the closest I could get with my skills and budget. I used the patterns in patterns of fashion as reference.

Hours to complete: From first draft to basic completeness. 3 weeks.
First worn: For photo's...its for an event next year.

Total cost: Fabric £30 (this is a bit of a guess as I forgot to note the amount of fabric I bought but the 'silk' was 65" wide about 4 meters, the lining was just a scrap I had of curtain lining.) Everything else is from my stash so I no longer know the cost.

 After drafting my bodice pattern I made a mock up for fitting using lining fabric.

 I then unpicked the lining and flatlined the 'silk' and then sewed it together.

Then put it on the dress form so I could drape the skirts. The skirts consited of two pannels.

 I pleated the back and gathered the sides. I also made a slit at the sides for access to the pockets.

 I also sewed on the ribbon loops which can be used to polonaise the skirts. You can see I added boning to the bodice.

 I hemmed the skirts. Then sewed on the hook and eye down the front.

I also made my first pair of sucessful fabric covered buttons. And sewed to the back of the bodice so I could clook up the skirts.

Then I sewed on the black lace round the neckline and sleeves...unfortunately I still haven't had chance to take photo of the completed dress on me yet...but it is finished.

UPDATE! So I've now had a chance to take photo's of the dress with trim.

Close up of the neckline trim and lace cuffs. Plus the buttons at the back for looping up skirts.

looped up, polonaised skirt.

With belt...

With skirts let down.

Look! Pockets!

HSF 2014 - Challenge #21 - Redo (Stays)

The Challenge: #21 Redo - Shape and Support

Fabric: linen, canvas

Pattern: Butterick 4254
Year: 1780-1800

Notions: boning, emboridery floss, ribbon, bias binding

How historically accurate is it? this is my first attempt at 18th century stays. I'm not sure how authentic the pattern is. And my boning choice was modern. But it gives a good enough sillouette for what I want to do.

Hours to complete: lost count took me about a month.

First worn: For fittings for my dress.

Total cost: Pattern £6.50 + p&p, Boning approx. £8. Bias binding £4 approx. Ribbon £2 approx. Canvas £12. Linen £10.  £42.50 approx.

I did my mock up in denim using an old pair of jeans and rigaline taped on.

 Then cut out the peices in canvas and linen. Sewed the linen to one layer of canvas.

 Then sandwiched boning between that layer and the 2nd canvas layer.

 Then I sewed the panels together. Sewed 'tape' down the seams.

 Then tackled binding the tabs. Arggh! My poor fingers.

 Then started on doing the eyelets by hand. They got better as I went along. You can tell which are the first ones I did.

 Then I bound the top of the stays and laced them up.

Front

Side

Back

Close up of eyelets and spiral lacing.

18th Century Dress - the Plan

The plan is for this dress is it will be able to adapt to several 'cosplays' as well as working for historical events in the future.  I started with researching the era on pinterest. I also check to see what I had enough fabric of in my 'stash'.

The red dress above seen in the scarlet pimpernel was just what I had in mind. It can be dressed up or down and I love the combination of the black fichu with the red gown.

I then found a pattern in the book that would give me a close enough look. (I think this is the original garment). I wanted to be able to polonaise the skirts so I could wear it down or up with a shorter skirt for a more piratical ensemble. The sleeves are shorter than the one in the pimpernel as I have found that comicons are always boiling hot and stuffy inside. And when you wear a fichu as well as all the requisite layers its probably going to be pretty toasty.




Cosplays this could work for include:

• Pirates of the carribean
• Queen of Hearts
• Clockwork Droid
• Margo Blakeney
• Barmaid victorian clara (I know its not victorian but to the casual observer not aquainted with historical fashion it would work)
• Marie Antoinette