Time for my post about the Jane Austen Festival (its quite expensive so I tend to go every other year). Lets start with the dresses which of course are very important.
I had been working on them for a number of months as this time I needed four outfit and I had loaned my usual back up dresses to my mum. Well I don't need more than that as an excuse to make more. I had got much more confident in my sewing and more HA (historically accurate) this time round. I started of course as you should do with the foundations.
So that was 2 more shifts to add to my current total. One of them needed to be longer sleeved 18th century. Then stays which I had completed a last year.
I wanted a 1790's transitional look and couldn't be bothered to fight with gussets. I was able to re use my petticoats, although had to adjust the length by rolling up at the waist, and used a bumroll for my 18th c outfit and of course pockets. Yes I wear them with regency...even with a reticule on hand. And my fichu.
For the Saturday. DAY.
Fichu, bib front gown, fingerless mitts, shawl, broach (cameo) bergere, basket and umbrella (as it was rather wet.) You can see from the photo of the back of the dress how the hem got soaked...my petticoat was pretty muddy too.
EVENING
Unfortunately I don't have many pictures of me wearing the dress as we were in a rush so didn't stop to take any before leaving and then I was dancing most of the time. I will post a more detailed description of the construction of this in the future. the dress was inspired by the tiedens toj dress and the sleeveless spencer was a happy accident as it was originally going to be the lining for and open robe but I liked it so added the gold trim. The headress was a last minute sew it up 5 mins before I leave job. Here I had fan and reticule to complement the look and the ubiquitous broach.
Sunday - day dress
This was my attempted at a late 18th century working class dress. I had petticoat and a lined skirt. My shoes I had modified (another future post) shift, stays, fichu and 'caraco'. I like the 18th c look but to make it more later in the century I'd raised the waistline nearer the natural. You might reconized this item from previous posts its gone from a bed gown, to a short gown and now its more of a caraco. I wore this ensemble to visit no1 the crescent in Bath.
Monday - day/dance dress
I had a bit of a mini disaster with my outfit on the monday so I didn't end up wearing what I planned. Firstly the white bib front gown had shrunk since I last wore it so it was short and I struggled to move my arms. I was wearing modern foundations as I needed to be able to sit in the car for a long journey so couldn't wear the stays this then meant my bra peeked out over my chemise and the chemise over the top of the dress. Arrrgggg! So I tried to make the chemise look part of the dress and pinned it to the bra so that it covered the straps up. Then when I tried my sleeveless spencer over it the waistline was in the wrong place. So I had to take back my old open robe from my mum and wear that instead. This then threw out my colourscheme and thus I improvised. Blue shawl over shoulder. My blue sash I turned into a turban and added my green cameo broach then clipped on my feather bow on the back of my head so it looked like it was part of the regency turban. During the day I wore my ankle boots but changed to my dancing shoes for the workshop.
And so ends the saga of the outfits. I'll post up a general post about the festival very soon.
SO realising I've not just got to make my new frock, spencer and bonnet...(and another shift) and maybe a chemisette. I have to make a set of clothes for someone else as well its dawning on me I need to plan.
So Basics - I need list of what is needed then what I can buy and what I can make and what I can bodge. Actually a nice guide for a first timer who doesn't want to look like they raided fancy dress up box but doesn't have time, funds or skill to make everything spot on accurate.
Apologies in advance to all those who always want historical accuracy. But I'm not a living historian - this is for 'fun'- so I think compromises can be made. ;) Clothing:
1. Shift
This can be made. Alternative - T-shirt will do (I used that and vest tops last time). 2. Stays/Bodiced petticoat
Short stays can be made but I'm not happy with fitting someone else other than me. Alternative - Good Bra and bodiced petticoat. 3. Chemisette/Fichu/Shirt
Can make all of them but depends on choice. Alternative - I can modify cotton shirts (H&M do the right kind) 4. Dress (yep now the fun part)
Have 2 commercial patterns I can use (1 accurate, 1 not) plus the version I'm drafting (bib front). Alternative - You could modify a maxi dress but I'm actually going to sew these dresses properly. 5. Spencer/Pelisse
I haven't got a pattern for one (currently drafting my own). Alternative - Find a jacket close enough then chop it up to crop it. 6. Bonnet/Cap
Make from scratch using buckram etc. Or sew the capote or turban hats. Alternative - Convert cheap straw hat from fancy dress shop 7. Sash/Shawl
Make one/Buy One 8. Shoes
Buy expensive accurate ones Alternative - Cheap pumps from a well known cheap clothing shop 9. Gloves/fingerless gloves
Sew them from pattern Alternative - Buy from fancy dress shop 10. Reticule
Simple and quick to make. Alternative - You could probably find a drawstring wash bag. 11. Fan
Buy wood one and paint it. Alternative - buy any one from cheap shop 12. Stockings
Well you could by proper ones. Alternative - Tights (Mine were light pink) or long (knee high) socks.
So going the alternative route you could find most of that in your wardrobe already or in cheap shops.
For myself I only need to sew 1 4 5 6 10 (and they are just updates really). Half my problem is not knowing what the weather will be like.
I need to make myself a new bonnet as I'm going to loan mine to my friend for her regency costume for JAF Bath.
I would like one like the bonnet above. I did try to make a bergere as well but that ended up a disaster and in a fit of pique I chopped it up and its becoming a new brim for a bonnet.
I covered it with a white silky material and it ended up looking like a fried egg had been dumped on my head.
So I cut out the centre and cut a V section out of the brim. I was pretty annoyed with it so hacking at the thing with scissors made me feel better.
So I need to draft some kind of crown for the bonnet.
As you can see in my inspiration image that the curve needs to end just below my ears. I ended up tapering the ends so it was more crecent moon shaped. Then taking the strip of buckram I had left in my stash I pinned it in a circle and adjusted it till it fitted my head. I found that I had to cut the two ends of the strip as a diaganol. so it tapered slightly. I also had to cut a semicircle out where my neck would be.
I then glued the last of the millinary wire round the top of the crown. Before the slow process of glueing the brim to the crown. Burnt my fingers on the hot glue gun a few times. Ouch!
side
Back
Front
This was the result...next challenge is covering the bonnet. eeep!
"I
have determined to trim my lilac sarsenet with black satin ribbon just
as my China crape is, 6d. width at the bottom, 3d. or 4d., at top.
Ribbon trimmings are all the fashion at Bath, and I dare say the
fashions of the two places are alike enough in that point to content me.
With this addition it will be a very useful gown, happy to go
anywhere."
Just as Jane did I've come to the conclusion that for Bath my purple dress needs to be trimmed with black.
With a black spencer and black bonnet with my purple flower trim and white lining.
I'll wear my black pumps but then have either a white or purple reticule. I already have the right colour umbrella and fan to match. I'm going to have a go at doing some fancy ribbon trim too.
And here is part 2. On the Monday we had signed up for the beginners dance workshop. But we had a few hours to pass before it started...and what can you do in Bath to pass the time while dressed in regency outfit.
Visit the pump rooms to take the waters. Got lots of people ask for photo's someone even thought we were the staff. lol!
Oh, dear....wonkey buttons
Have a cream tea. We went to the Bath Bun tearoom. A place discovered on a previous visit which does lovely lunches and cream teas. And I loved how the waitresses just took it as quite normal we were dressed up.
As you can see I was wearing open robe and 'regency turban' for the dancing.
We arrived at the venue for the workshop early but found others there so we had a little chat before doors opened. I joined in almost all of the dances. Despite my usual issues with 'heys' and 'strip the willow' in dances.
My favourites was the 'polonaise' with its funny step, and 'the duke of kents waltz' which I thought was very elegant.
It was a shame we couldn't stay for the 2nd workshop and learn Mr Beveridges Maggot.
My hair well its determined to be poker straight....it hates to curl and will shake off ringlets at the first opportunity. I on the other hand want curls. I have resorted to a perm previously...but its never the right kind of curl and I want different setting patterns for different hairdos.
So I think I've got the hang of the 1940's/50's hairdos. I know victory rolls are not possible in my hair but pin curls are great for creating the look I want.
Now comes regency...I will be covering most of my hair with cap/turban/bonnet at the promenade so only the fringe needs doing but for the dance workshop I will have to do a regency do...
My inspiration for the hairstyle comes from the one 'Harriet Smith' in the BBC version.
First off I needed to change to a centre-ish parting. Secondly, my hair isn't long enough to do a bun. I can only do the tiniest ponytail, so in comes the hair piece.
Now for the curls in the fringe....well ringlets really. I have never ever made ringlets successfully in my hair. I can use pincurls and get waves, sponge rollers and get tight curls that fall into waves. So a new experiment was needed. I thought I'd try using rags in my hair. So here are the results.
All of these methods were left in overnight and wrapped in headscarf to keep in tact.
Method: Pin curls Equipment: bobby pins, mousse, hairspray Sleep Yes/No: yes Resulting curl: More of a wave than a curl and what did curl became a wave very soon How long did it last?: half a day at most
Method: Sponge rollers
Equipment: mousse, hairspray, sponge rollers
Sleep Yes/No: no, woke up intermittently because of rollers digging into scalp.
Resulting curl: tight curl, easy to roll up. But curls horizontal rather than vertical.
How long did it last?: About a day (if plenty of hairspray liberally applied) but will fall to waves if not pinned in place.
Method: Rags
Equipment: Strips of fabric (2.5cm x 28cm), mousse, hairspray
Sleep Yes/No: Yes
Resulting curl: Vertical curl...nearest to ringlets I've ever got. Some are a little scruffy. Must remember to curl under not over.
How long did it last?: About a day although the springyness goes after about half a day.
Late addition - on dry hair
Using youtube tutorial
Method: Papillotes
Equipment: triangles of paper, hair strighterners, hairspray
Sleep Yes/No: Yes (but you don't have to sleep in them)
Resulting curl: You get 'kiss curls' which to can then fork out to turn into ringlets.
How long did it last?: it lasts several days....I washed them out as they had great staying power and look authentic.
So how do you get your curls to stay and how do you do ringlets?
So I've made a start. I'm thinking I can't have been too far away from the original models size. As when I did paper pattern I added 2 inches...and once I made up the toile..silly me had forgot the paper pattern didn't include seam allowances which I *did* add to the fabric toile. I found I had to take about 1 1/2 inches off.
I wanted to try and avoid obvious darts. So I too in the 'curve' at the seams.
Close up
I wasn't sure if the 'lining' should just 'meet' or overlap. And by how much. At the moment it is overlapping quite a lot.
Ignore the darts I took them out once I added the darts at the seams.
You can see the overlap if you look carefully at above picture.
I then started on the 'wrapover' part. That went quite smoothly once I figured out which side seam it should be in line with.
Back - found it looked better attached to that seam rather than the other one.
Not the clearest picture. But shows front with wrapover over over lining.
Next step getting my head round how to attach the wrap around skirt.
Been enjoying looking through and reading Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1&2.
(Great set of books recommended).
Now I got brave and scaled up the pattern.
The wrap-over half robe on page 44 of patterns of fashion.
(Haven't got round to the skirt bit yet.)
Now I found the front sat ok..but the back didn't. The centre back didn't reach to the 'centre back'. My instinct was to extend the last panel. I'm wondering if I should have extended it at different place.
I have finally decided on an outfit. Dress. I am going make... This one.
See link
Although will make the spencer longsleeved.
So, last night I decided to try to see if I could do a drawstring dress using the S&S pattern as my base and using the 'moulage template' to compare and adjust so I knew how deep I needed to go to fit (see I can work some stuff out myself). Oh and I made sure I added ample fabric to top and bottom of bodice just in case. I can get it over my head, the armholes don't feel like the are too far forward. Got to put the drawstring in and see how it feels next.
Now I get how to add the drawstring about the neck.
I'm confused how to add it on the waist? Trying to figure out of I should slightly gather the bodice first attach to skirt pieces then add the drawstring like on my modern clothes is like little loops the string goes through. Or is there something that needs to be done on the bodice first? Or do I just use a sash?
Haven't got enough spare fabric to do a long skirt so might do a shorter one so I can experiment.
My aim is to have a dress I can pull over my head rather than struggle to do up with a back opening. Don't want 'snaps' as they might undo. Buttons I avoid not having buttonhole option on my machine. Hook and eye again its the coming undone problem.
I'm thinking about doing this for my hair/head dress.
But having turban/hair wrap in pink and white instead of blue and white.
Quick Update
I'm wondering if I should now change design as my mock up drawstring isn't really suiting me. Plus I really aught to use the material I bought originally.
My 'pattern' for bodice (ignore the darts-I moved those later)
I was really struggling with getting the bought pattern to fit me correctly. So at the advice of the lady from this blog. I made my own pattern using two rectangles to make a lose 'tunic' which I then pinned and cut and drew on while wearing to create the shape I wanted. Still need to tweak the back. Lower the collar a little and add in the curved seams but I just wanted to put it together quickly to get the 'fit' right. And when it comes to it I may cut the collar front a little lower. When it came to the darts in the final toile I used the 50's dress I had made as reference.
I used an old oversize shirt I'd got for the bargain price of £1 a couple of years ago. (I'm quite liking the plaid with cream look on the dress. lol!) Now I know if I like the fabric on an oversize blokes shirt I can buy it and turn it into my bodice material.
Back
Front
Next step is the skirt...which definitely needs another panel or two in it to make it wide/full enough.
"Can you make me a cambric shirt? Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme Without a seam or needlework Then you shall be a true lover of mine."
Here are some I drew out quickly....got a few more I need to scan in. I have a shirtdress at home I find really comfy...and it just happens to be empireline. Quite tempted to use the top part as a 'template'.
I also have a smock top I like the top and sleeves for.
Well anyway here is some sketches color will be added later.
The bodice would be a solid green and the skirt a white with yellow and green flowers. Trimmed with olive green ribbon.
I like the dress on the right
Dress on the Left has top based on the photo at bottom of page. The right is simple drawstring would be done in faded pastel pink or white cambric with floral braid trim.
Dress on the left is 'nautical' inspired (would be in blue & white). Dress on Right white petticoat with crossover pellise in a solid colour.
Spotted this dress on another blog. I think it would suit me.
So I've been planning to go to the Jane Austen Festival in Bath for several years and each time something stops me. But this time I'm thinking properly seriously about it. And planning my outfit.
Day Dress
Evening Dress
My 'plan' is to have a plain petticoat with some embroidery round the base. Then have 2 open robes.....Short sleeve for evening, long sleeve for day. Also bonnet for the Day/Outside, turban or beret for inside. Got some nice feathers and ribbon I want to use. It won't have a train for practical and cost reasons.
Although I do like the 2nd open robe shown here.
Been looking on the V&A website. A lot of the open robes like this one have 3/4 length sleeves.
I like this as a colour for the 'evening' dress.
This is as far as I've got with what was supposed to be a toile...but I put so much effort into it I'm gonna tidy it up a bit, finish it and use it. Wear it as a petticoat maybe?
Bodice and Skirt
The bodice is sewn (no sleeves) and the skirt is tacked ready for sewing. The fabric...well when I read the word lining when I first gt the pattern the only thing market lining that was cheap where I bought the fabric....well it was curtain lining. So its not exactly flimsy. lol!
Headwear
Well choices are:
Bonnet
Beret
Turban
I like the ones described here. Torn between the 'capote' and the rope turban.
Regency
I've always wanted to go to the Jane Austen Festival. Its always 'next year I'll go' then something spoils it. This time I really do home to go. I have the sense & Sensibility pattern.
http://sensibility.com/category/patterns/regency-era/
This is the fabric I have for the regency dress I eventually plan to make.
I have the bonnet, shoes already....and I think I could make a reticule quite quickly.
1950's
I have some lovely gingham fabric.... and some burgandy lining fabric.
Will probably use the burgandy for making the crinoline.
Misc
I couldn't resist this lovely trim....
I have some green fabric left from my disastrous first attempt at making a dress with no help.
