HSF 2014 - Challenge #15 - The Great Outdoors (Bonnet)

The Challenge: #15 The Great Outdoors

Fabric: buckram, velvet

Pattern: none. self drafted.
Year: 1795-1830
Notions: Wire. Ribbon and other trim.

How historically accurate is it? Don't ask...I'm not a bonnet expert. This has just been one big experiment.

Hours to complete: it took forever I lost count.

First worn: N/A
Total cost: I lost track of the costs. I know the buckram and wire was pricey. The velvet was a leftover and can't recall the price.


I made the frame out of buckram and wire. I hadn't made a pattern to cut the fabric out with so I used the pattern from the original bergere and fudged it (yep technical term).

 For the brim I worked my way round glueing first at the top then smoothing the material along the brim and glueing it to the underneath. I tried to use as small amount of glue as possible so when I sewed the trim on it couldn't keep hitting glue and gunking up the needles.

Next thing I drew round the top part of the bonnet and added about an inch so I had room to play with, cut it out and worked my way round glueing the edge and smoothing down the material.

I then measured the height and circumference and cut generous seam allowance. Folding over the raw edges and pinning in place (I did glue a few points to anchor it before pinning).

As you can see it needed a bit of tweaking as it doesn't sit flush.

I couldn't help having a play around with the feather and trim just to see if colours worked.

Next was to line the inside. Which I found very tricky as I didn't have a proper pattern. There was a lot of guessing a bodging involved. Basically I cut a large rectangle of fabric. Weighted it inside then folded over thr raw edge as I pinned, pleating to fit.

I then started to decorate the outside. Tacking the lining in place as I attached the band on the outside.

Then I looked at it and thought....there's something missing. Thanks to the HSF contestants(?) who made some suggestions. I added some gold braid.

If I get time I might add a cockade but I think this will do for now.

Bonnets, Bergere, bother and bodging!

I need to make myself a new bonnet as I'm going to loan mine to my friend for her regency costume for JAF Bath.

I would like one like the bonnet above. I did try to make a bergere as well but that ended up a disaster and in a fit of pique I chopped it up and its becoming a new brim for a bonnet.

I covered it with a white silky material and it ended up looking like a fried egg had been dumped on my head.

So I cut out the centre and cut a V section out of the brim. I was pretty annoyed with it so hacking at the thing with scissors made me feel better.

 So I need to draft some kind of crown for the bonnet.

As you can see in my inspiration image that the curve needs to end just below my ears. I ended up tapering the ends so it was more crecent moon shaped. Then taking the strip of buckram I had left in my stash I pinned it in a circle and adjusted it till it fitted my head. I found that I had to cut the two ends of the strip as a diaganol. so it tapered slightly. I also had to cut a semicircle out where my neck would be.

I then glued the last of the millinary wire round the top of the crown. Before the slow process of glueing the brim to the crown. Burnt my fingers on the hot glue gun a few times. Ouch!

side

Back

Front

This was the result...next challenge is covering the bonnet. eeep!

HSF Challenge #21 Green - Green Ribbon Decoration

The Challenge: #21 Green

Fabric: Green Ribbon

Pattern: N/A I read a few tutorials and made it up as I went along.

Year: Regency 1800-1820

Notions: Cameo (actually its what people use for card crafts but seemed to fit perfectly

How historically accurate is it? Well it looks authentic to me. The cameo doesn't look obviously plastic.

Hours to complete: Oh, it was very quick did it in one evening.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: It was all out of my stash so only a couple of quid.

The cameo is glued onto the centre of the cockade. I then attached it to my bonnet.

Bonnets - design choices

From Workwoman's guide

So I want to make a bonnet that's not made from straw. The smell of straw just gets too much after a while. So I was thinking of making a buckram and fabric one. Maybe make it more 'fancy' than my other one using silks etc. this time.
The instructions say "This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz or nankeen with cotton runners." It also instructs to cord it? Maybe if I corded it and interfaced I might get the strength I needed without the buckram?
This bonnet seems to be the same kinda pattern and cording has been used....although I've be tempted to wire the brim.

straw bonnet - too plain?

Which means I have to find a neutral colour to use so it will go with several outfits. I was debating whether to do two, one regency and one victorian OR one that would suit both timeframes.

From google search

I liked the bonnets the dashwood sisters wear in the most recent adaptation. And its what I have in mind or what I'd like to aim for...that 'halo' around the face look.

I really rather liked the pattern from the workwomans guide shown at top of the page. I've done a  'paper' version. This will be first time working with 'buckram' which I suspect is the wrong kind but its stiff so hoping it will work.
 

paper mock up

I've made a few adjustments to the pattern since the photo above which included reducing the brim slightly. also purchased some wider buckram online. I've also been gathering some potential trim.

 The feathers make it look a bit Cranfordian.

The flowers match perfectly my fabric I have for my dress. Decided to make a bib front dress. ;)

Bonnet and Veil - HSF #10 - Literature

You are getting two for the price of one.

The retrimmed bonnet

"Look here, I have bought this bonnet. I do not think it is very pretty; but I thought I might as well buy it as not. I shall pull it to pieces as soon as I get home, and see if I can make it up any better." Pride & Predudice."

The Veil "...very little wite satin, very few lace veils"  Emma.

I've taken my inspiration from some images from pinterest.

Source: thomason-photography.net via Lady on Pinterest

Source: flickr.com via Lady on Pinterest

Source: reg-ency.com via Lady on Pinterest

Source: austenonly.files.wordpress.com via Lady on Pinterest

The Challenge: #10 Literature

Fabric: Veil was some chiffon. The bonnet was a straw hat I cut up and modified with a linen type material.

Pattern: No pattern used.

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: Self fabric biasbinding, thread, feather.

How historically accurate is it? I tried to give a similar shape to the bonnets from fashion plates so guessing its fairly accurate. Probably should have covered the straw in fabric but it seemed more trouble than it was worth.

Hours to complete: approx 20. I lost count. As I made it in stages.

First worn: For the photos for this blog.

Cost: Straw hat £4, Bias binding left over self made so free, Linen type fabric less than a metre approx £3, Feather £1, ribbon reused, less than metre of chiffon £2. Total £10 approx.

This was the bonnet before:

I cut off the crown. Made a gathered material one instead. Reused the ribbon. Bound the cut edges with biasbinding. Added a loop and button so I could adjust the fit.
The veil is a peice of shiffon with a rolled hem. I pinned it onto the bonnet for a quick change.

And After:

 

A regency cap...to save a fortune in hair dressing

So I've noticed that wearing a bonnet or turban really messes up your hair. I end up looking like I've been dragged through a hedge backwards. How do I solve this problem. A cap!

I like the one on the right

Now I know its usually older women who wear them. But I'm planning on wearing under headress rather than as a cap in its own right.

A Lavinia hat of fine moss straw — a small cap of lace beneath, ornamented on one side with a small bunch of flowers, and tied with cerulean blue ribband on the other.

With my bonnet (I finally found one I liked that didn't make me feel like a pet wearing one of those cone things). I soaked it and shaped it. Still haven't decorated it yet.

It looks close to the one in the image above.

It looks to me in the fashion plate she has some kind of cap underneath. And she doesn't look 'ancient' or anything.

 So using some mystery left over fabric I cut off a skirt lining that looked like it was lightweight enough.

This is the cap 'undecorated'. It sites quite far back on my head. 

And above is the 'trim' pinned on. What do you think...does it work or is it too fussy?

In case anyone wants to know this was basically my process.

Here are some additional images now I've finished the bonnet.

 And to show how the 'lace cap' looks underneath.

Bonnets and Bags -upcycled

I've been busying myself with some little projects while waiting to get some fabric to start my dress.

First off I did some upcycling. Turned a pocket, shirt tail and scraps from a sheet into a bonnet.

Its not quite finished as I need to quilt it. Have only wadded the brim edge so far.

Second item from scraps of a sheet and left over embroidery thread was...a reticule (Regency purse/bag).

Kept it simple

Still got to finish off. Sew two pieces together and add the ribbon handle.

Edit: Decided to do 2 more panels after my finger slipped and I accidentally ordered 72 skiens of embroidery thread. lol! Should keep me occupied for a while. Afterwards...got in mind a beret with some embroidery on the crown.

Regency Dress

So I've been planning to go to the Jane Austen Festival in Bath for several years and each time something stops me. But this time I'm thinking properly seriously about it. And planning my outfit.

Day Dress

Evening Dress

My 'plan' is to have a plain petticoat with some embroidery round the base. Then have 2 open robes.....Short sleeve for evening, long sleeve for day. Also bonnet for the Day/Outside, turban or beret for inside. Got some nice feathers and ribbon I want to use. It won't have a train for practical and cost reasons.
Although I do like the 2nd open robe shown here.
Been looking on the V&A website. A lot of the open robes like this one have 3/4 length sleeves.
I like this as a colour for the 'evening' dress.

This is as far as I've got with what was supposed to be a toile...but I put so much effort into it I'm gonna tidy it up a bit, finish it and use it. Wear it as a petticoat maybe?

Bodice and Skirt

The bodice is sewn (no sleeves) and the skirt is tacked ready for sewing.  The fabric...well when I read the word lining when I first gt the pattern the only thing market lining that was cheap where I bought the fabric....well it was curtain lining. So its not exactly flimsy. lol!

Headwear
Well choices are:
Bonnet
Beret
Turban

I like the ones described here. Torn between the 'capote' and the rope turban.