HSF 2014 - Challenge #4 - Under it all (18th Centrury Petticoat)

The Challenge: #4 Under it all
Fabric: blue polycotton
Pattern: I used the tutorial from a fashionable frolick
Year:18th Century (but I hope it will be useful to multiple eras)
Notions: well I'm not sure what it is but it mades good ties.
How historically accurate is it?well its made 50/50 hand/machine sewing.
Hours to complete: did it in one day.
First worn: For fitting.
Total cost: £8 I think.

the only change I made from the original instructions was to have a wide hem....so I could alter the hight later.

Doctor Who Costume - Fitting the skirt (petticoat)

I'm making a Edwardian skirt to go with the ensemble but this skirt needs a petticoat. So I'm using the petticoat as a test run for the pattern. Only difference will be that I'll add a flounce to the petticoat and maybe some lace decoration.
The finished petticoat will fit into the historical sew fortnightly challenge. I pleated the back. Seen here the waistband closures are missing and the hemming has not been done.

 

You can see here its worn with the toile of my blouse. Self drafted edwardian blouse - well I took a shirt pattern that fitted and modified the peices to reflect period pattern peices on this site. This is the mock up shown with beatrix skirt (WIP). Just working out how to do the collar. I think it needs to be cut on the bias. Will do the proper one in a white polycotton and use sleeves from my beatrix jacket pattern. I also need to add another half and inch to the back peices (and a facing) for a proper overlap for the buttons. 

HSF Challenge #15 White - Regency Waist Petticoat

The Challenge: #15 'White'
I chose an 'off' white fabric for my waist petticoat. It was very simple. I took 2metres of fabric cut in half so each peice was 45inches wide and 1metre high (yes I know I'm mixing measurements). Sewed up the two side seams leaving about 15cm at the top on one side only and made a placket.
Cut the right length bias binding to fit my waist. Pleated the pack and gathered the front then attached the binding. Added the hook & eye then straps.

Fabric: Off-white polycotton.

Pattern: No pattern. Self drafted.

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: Some kind of tape (it was given to me so I haven't a clue its name), bias binding, hook & eye.

How historically accurate is it? Other than the material composition I think its accurate shapewise and does what it needs to do.

Hours to complete: I lose track coz I put down and pick up. A couple of days all handsewn.

First worn: Well tried it on for photoshoot today.

Total cost: approx £9

Petticoats and Ruffles (HSAL) challenge 3

So for the historical sew a long challenge no.3 'under it all' I chose to make a petticoat. After spending ages umming and aahring about what era it should be made for...I decided to go for a generic one that incorporated historical techniques but could be used for both modern and historical.

Firstly I used a basic A-line skirt pattern for my petticoat waistline then I cut two 45" strips of fabric, sewed them together. I then pintucked that strip of fabric to stop the petticoat wrapping round my legs or collapsing with weight. Then added them to the top half by pleating to fit.

Then having run out of white material used some of the pink to make a ruffle. As I sew by hand I used a technique I'd heard about where you sew over a chord to gather before attaching to the petticoat.

I then tried the petticoat on and pinned the waist darts I needed. Sewed them, pressed. Then sewed down the lapped seam at the side.

Finished the top edge with bias binding. Made a loop and button and a hook and eye.

The Challenge: Under it all No.3

Fabric: polycotton

Pattern:  Self drafted.

Year: No particular year although originally basing it on a shortened 'edwardian' inspired petticoat.

Notions: Self bias (stash) button (stash) hook n eye (stash) cotton (stash) string (stash).

How historically accurate is it? I'm not sure (you'll have to tell me). But I tried to make it as a historically inspired rather than commit to one era.

Hours to complete: not sure about hours only took me 4 days to complete by hand.

First worn: When I took the photo's on Sunday....found it comfortable and useful in the snow to keep me warm.

Total cost: I made it from my stash so technically it was free. But the polly cotton is £3.50 per metre and I think I used just over 2 metres.

Petticoats, flounces and ruffles

Otherwise known as how much do you want your skirt to stick out. lol! So I was originally intending to make some bloomers.

But my lack of experience and knowledge when it comes to trousers has let me down. I can't draft a pair no matter how hard I try. So what to do for Challenge 3 & 4?
A petticoat. I do need one as my skirts and dresses are looking a little deflated because I can't wear my old one because I've lost inches off my waist its become a hipster skirt and shows underneath the skirts in an unbecoming way. So a new petticoat it is. I need something that will work in several eras so my research begins.

Things it needs to have are:
Smooth top of petticoat with ruffles confined to bottom edges
Either drawstring or elastic waistline (to prevent problem with waistline changes)
It shouldn't show underneath skirts when I stand still. (wondering if I could add ties in ribbon to adjust length as needed.)


I like these....

Source: dollhousebettie.com via Lady on Pinterest

Source: Uploaded by user via Lady on Pinterest

And I notice these are quite short.

Source: images.search.yahoo.com via Lady on Pinterest

I like the top one in particular so I'm guessing that's an A-line with a flounce?
Then I like the umf you get from this...

Source: diaryofaseamstress.blogspot.co.uk via Lady on Pinterest

And there's always a corded petticoat

Source: madamemodiste.dreamwidth.org via Lady on Pinterest

I also like this but a little shorter?

Source: rubylane.com via Lady on Pinterest

I've like something that gives me opportunity to embellish.

Regency dress...modesty and material

I tried my dress on the other day and realized as the light shone in the window behind me that was having the issue that my fabric was a little too transparent. A bodiced petticoat is in order. Although as I am wearing a corset I won't need the boning. So something like this one? Or Should I just have a suspendered petticoat?
Thing is I'm not sure of which fabric to use.

There's the fabric I used for my mock up which is quite stiff (curtain lining).

fabric bottom right

Or there's some (what I was told) was linen. But its stiffer than I expect linen to be and has 'slubs' in the fabric but sill not as stiff as the lining.

Or I have some cream polycotton I was going to use with the polkadot for a top.

I have 2 metres of each of the fabric.

Erm help?

Dresses, Patterns etc.

So my mock up of drawstring dress...lets just say it didn't turn out very flattering (pics later) so I will either unpick, adjust or use as petticoat.

On more positive note. Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1&2 arrived at the weekend...I've had my nose in them ever since. Wanted to try out some of the patterns but I have tried scaling up patterns before and its been a disaster. And being low on 'scrap' fabric. I decided to make them to the size of the pattern in the book. They might fit a doll. But I like that it would make them quick to put together to see how they looked.

Page 44

This all makes me what to scream. Why can't I get clothes to fit?!!!!!

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Update
I've calmed down now. It doesn't look so bad when I put a sash round it. But it does look like what it is and that's a dress made out of a sheet.

Front

Front

Back

Back (Which is too wide forgot original pattern opened at the back so should have taken some of the width out.)

Front

1950's dress - update 4 - the crinoline

Dress so far

So this morning I made my petticoat/crinoline to make the skirt stick out. I did originally intend to use the online pattern...but in a sort out I came across an old white linen tiered skirt with elastic waist and thought Ii might cannibalize the material to save me work.

You can see I even left the little loops on for hanging it on a coathanger.

 And Here it Is at work..not quite sticky outy enough but I'm working on that....

Needs another ruffle at the bottom of skirt

1950's 'crinoline' petticoat

Will be attempting to sew the petticoat which will make the 1950's dress stick out soon.

Find instructions here.

Looking at finished product made me think of a skirt I already have...

It has a attached petticoat and has a similar sort of design with the material then netting at very bottom.

Although the net is 'softer' than the netting I bought.