HSF 2014 - Challenge #5 - Bodice (bustle era bodice) EPIC FAIL!

The Challenge: #5 Bodice

Fabric: polycotton, calico

Pattern: none. self drafted.

Year: 1880's

Notions: boning, buttons, hook & eye

How historically accurate is it? N/A

Hours to complete: N/A

First worn:N/A

Total cost:N/A

So as part of the overall ensemble I'm making I need a bodice. Not having a commercial pattern on hand I decided to use the instructions in 'Draping Period Costumes' to create one from scratch.

 In my toile I changed a waist dart into a seam so I can hide a pocket there.

 Initially I tried to put in two darts but only seem to be able to put in one without messing up the fit.
But I needed 2 darts for the accuracy...so after getting some help from other HSF participants I decided to try it on myself wearing the right foundations. Managed to take out front waist seam and create 2 bust darts.

I wanted pockets...lots of pockets as it would save carrying a large bag around all day. Transfered the fabric pattern to paper...ready to work on the next stage.

That was when I realised if I wanted to do the faux waistcoat I'd need to change one of the darts into a princess seam.

Now to cut out the interlining which would also be my toile.
 I managed to make it look ok but when I transferred to calico it just didn't look right.

Not sure what was wrong. So I took it apart and started again...

 I used the trick I'd read about taping in the bones on a mock up to try it on.

The shape was looking closer to what I wanted. It looks better on me than the dressform.

Made a few alterations to the neckline and armhole. Then added the sleeves.

Then after double checking the fit. I undid all my hard work and unpicked the seams. Ironed out the peices ready to use to flatline the bodice.

I then tacked the main seams together and pinned others so I can check the fit again before I sew in place.

I ended up needing to split the back so it would fit over the extra padding (see above). I'll also need to add a waist stay in addition to the bones to keep the bodice waistline in place or else I get some gapping.

 I also pinned my bustle drapery on to see how it would look.

The bodice was looking ok...still think its a bit stocky queen victoria in shape.

Looks ok from the side but from the front....it looks awful.

This was the point at which I gave up. No amount of tweaking and reworking was going to make it look acceptable. The skirt was all wrong. The bodice made me look dumpy. the neckline was wonkey and I'd cut too much off the length.
It goes on the FAIL pile.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #2 - Innovation (Bustle)

Everyday I'm bustling...

The Challenge: #2 Innovations
Invention:  Well I'm bending the definition here. Its a re-invention rather than an invention. As was pointed out to me bustles were around before. But they were reinvented for what fashion was in at the time in shape and placement and materials.
Fabric: White poly cotton, quilt batting
Pattern:N/A Self drafted
Year: 1880-1890
Notions: bias binding
How historically accurate is it? well I did some research looking through pinterest. And noticed the shapes and patterns and tried to make something resembling the smaller bustles.
Hours to complete: 3-ish
First worn: Tried it on a few times but not worn properly as outfit not finished
Total cost: free...all from my stash.

Yes. I've given in...but I do love the bustle fashions. Forget I have nowhere to wear the finished outfit. lol! But I am starting small with the subject for challenge two and making a bustle.
There seems to be as many different types and styles as there is people...but I decided to focus on making something easy to store and simple to make. And also not too big so I can sit wearing it.

 I also needed it to be practical for if *ahem* I needed to go to the loo. At least if its not all boned and wired I've got the posibilty of rolling it all up and away.

 I added a small 'tail' to the stuffed pad. Then added ruffles to that.

I think I might add more ruffles at a later point if I feel it needs more.

Above is what the bustle looks like underneath my edwardian skirt which I'm using as a 'stand in' skirt at the moment till I make the foundation skirt.

Bustle Era Cosplay

The Doctor: Guess what I've got Donna.
[Pulls out a large remote device from his overcoat]
Pockets.
Donna: How did they fit in there?
The Doctor: They're bigger on the inside.

So the main thought with this ensemble was pockets...lots of them. Now I liked the thought of making a female sherlock victorian outfit.

 I liked the fashion plate below especially as she's holding some glasses

But then I like pinstripes...and I was looking at perhaps a female tenth doctor victorian outfit.

 The striped apron and bodice over a plain skirt. Low neck but with option of a fichu to fill it in.

Again striped fabric over a plain foundation skirt. I love the elegant simplicity. The sleeve length amount of ruffles. And the hat as well on and that she has an umbrella...perfect for an english summer. ;)

For all of them I'll need the right layers...and the right fabrics. I don't want to be perspiring all day. lol! Practicality is key.
I'll need bustle, petticoat, stays, chemise, foundation skirt, bodice and a swagged apron. Now for calculating the cost. The bustle, chemise and petticoat I can make from my stash. The foundation skirt, 'apron' and bodice (with lining, boning etc.) Looking at the yardages for the proper patterns. I'll probably need about 3-4 meters for the skirt (which I'll also use as the lining fabric), 3 for the bodice and apron? Not sure how much boning needed?

Anyway...the game, is on. ;)