Updating an old dress -1780 to 1790s

This shows how much my skills have improved. I needed a 'georgian' dress so I dug out my old red one I made ages ago. I've never been happy with how it fitted but it was one of my first attempts at making up a pattern from patterns of fashion. Was meant to be circa 1780s in style. I removed the lace from the neckline and cuffs. Then took off the hook n eye which clearly was causing gaping.
Next thing I did was try it on over stays and pin the front tightly. Then chalked on where I needed to cut down the neckline and where I wanted the 'zone' front to be. Then I pinned along the lines.

You can see the boning is making the bodice sit oddly.

The blue line is where the neckline would be. The green where the contrast fabric panel needed to go.

This was the point where I removed the boning I had in the front of the bodice as it was throwing off the shape. I also unpicked the skirt for a couple of inches. I traced the shape of the front and then added a seam allowance.

 I appliqued the striped fabric on by hand. Tucking the fabric round the front of the bodice.

I then stitched the skirt back on further back. It can still be polonaised or as is.

In the meantime I made a striped petticoat to match the zone front. The only thing left is to sew the hook n eyes back on.

I've even made a matching hat. Currently debating whether to add a sash or not? What do you think?

Jane Austen Festival Bath - 2016 (the costumes)

Time for my post about the Jane Austen Festival (its quite expensive so I tend to go every other year). Lets start with the dresses which of course are very important.
I had been working on them for a number of months as this time I needed four outfit and I had loaned my usual back up dresses to my mum. Well I don't need more than that as an excuse to make more. I had got much more confident in my sewing and more HA (historically accurate) this time round. I started of course as you should do with the foundations.

So that was 2 more shifts to add to my current total. One of them needed to be longer sleeved 18th century. Then stays which I had completed a last year.

I wanted a 1790's transitional look and couldn't be bothered to fight with gussets. I was able to re use my petticoats, although had to adjust the length by rolling up at the waist, and used a bumroll for my 18th c outfit and of course pockets. Yes I wear them with regency...even with a reticule on hand. And my fichu.
For the Saturday. DAY.

Fichu, bib front gown, fingerless mitts, shawl, broach (cameo) bergere, basket and umbrella (as it was rather wet.) You can see from the photo of the back of the dress how the hem got soaked...my petticoat was pretty muddy too.

EVENING

Unfortunately I don't have many pictures of me wearing the dress as we were in a rush so didn't stop to take any before leaving and then I was dancing most of the time. I will post a more detailed description of the construction of this in the future. the dress was inspired by the tiedens toj dress and the sleeveless spencer was a happy accident as it was originally going to be the lining for and open robe but I liked it so added the gold trim. The headress was a last minute sew it up 5 mins before I leave job. Here I had fan and reticule to complement the look and the ubiquitous broach.

Sunday - day dress

This was my attempted at a late 18th century working class dress. I had petticoat and a lined skirt. My shoes I had modified (another future post) shift, stays, fichu and 'caraco'. I like the 18th c look but to make it more later in the century I'd raised the waistline nearer the natural. You might reconized this item from previous posts its gone from a bed gown, to a short gown and now its more of a caraco. I wore this ensemble to visit no1 the crescent in Bath.

Monday - day/dance dress

I had a bit of a mini disaster with my outfit on the monday so I didn't end up wearing what I planned. Firstly the white bib front gown had shrunk since I last wore it so it was short and I struggled to move my arms. I was wearing modern foundations as I needed to be able to sit in the car for a long journey so couldn't wear the stays this then meant my bra peeked out over my chemise and the chemise over the top of the dress. Arrrgggg! So I tried to make the chemise look part of the dress and pinned it to the bra so that it covered the straps up. Then when I tried my sleeveless spencer over it the waistline was in the wrong place. So I had to take back my old open robe from my mum and wear that instead. This then threw out my colourscheme and thus I improvised. Blue shawl over shoulder. My blue sash I turned into a turban and added my green cameo broach then clipped on my feather bow on the back of my head so it looked like it was part of the regency turban. During the day I wore my ankle boots but changed to my dancing shoes for the workshop.

And so ends the saga of the outfits. I'll post up a general post about the festival very soon. 

HSF 2015 - Challenge #6 - Out of your comfort zone

What the item is (and why it was out of your comfort zone): Its a housedress/apron. Its out of my comfort zone because I have not had sucess with wrapover dresses or tops. I've stayed away from them as I could never adjust them to fit. But now my fitting skills have improved decided to go for it.

The Challenge: #6 Out of your comfort zone

Fabric: Floral print cotton

Pattern: McCalls 6959

Year: 1940's (and could even work for early 50's)

Notions: Bias binding, thread.

How historically accurate is it? I based it off the period images I found on pinterest and the sewing patterns of the day.

Hours to complete: Well I sorta lost track, stopping and starting. Took me ages to get the fit right but once that was done it was fairly quick to sew up.

First worn: Today for pics.

Total cost: It was all from my stash so cost me nothing but the fabric was probably around the £5 per metre mark.

 I started with a modern pattern that was close enough to what I wanted. Then I took the narrow skirted view, left off the collar and flared out the skirt into an A-line shape.

I slash and spread the bodice pattern widthwise, and added a little length to the bottom of the bodice.

I used some yellow bias binding from my stash for the ties...but now I think I should have used some self bias fabric. I did change my mind halfway though as I was going to use the yellow to bind the arms and front of the apron but it looked a bit....tacky.

 I even had enough fabric left to make a matching headscarf.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #21 - Redo

The Challenge: #21 Redo - Fairytale #6

Fabric: red poly silk taffeta with aubtle stripe, Cotton lining.

Pattern: Self drafted using Butterick 4254 (View B) as a starting point before draping on the stand.
Year: 1780-1795

Notions: boning, embroidery floss, ribbon, lace, self covered buttons.

How historically accurate is it? Its the closest I could get with my skills and budget. I used the patterns in patterns of fashion as reference.

Hours to complete: From first draft to basic completeness. 3 weeks.
First worn: For photo's...its for an event next year.

Total cost: Fabric £30 (this is a bit of a guess as I forgot to note the amount of fabric I bought but the 'silk' was 65" wide about 4 meters, the lining was just a scrap I had of curtain lining.) Everything else is from my stash so I no longer know the cost.

 After drafting my bodice pattern I made a mock up for fitting using lining fabric.

 I then unpicked the lining and flatlined the 'silk' and then sewed it together.

Then put it on the dress form so I could drape the skirts. The skirts consited of two pannels.

 I pleated the back and gathered the sides. I also made a slit at the sides for access to the pockets.

 I also sewed on the ribbon loops which can be used to polonaise the skirts. You can see I added boning to the bodice.

 I hemmed the skirts. Then sewed on the hook and eye down the front.

I also made my first pair of sucessful fabric covered buttons. And sewed to the back of the bodice so I could clook up the skirts.

Then I sewed on the black lace round the neckline and sleeves...unfortunately I still haven't had chance to take photo of the completed dress on me yet...but it is finished.

UPDATE! So I've now had a chance to take photo's of the dress with trim.

Close up of the neckline trim and lace cuffs. Plus the buttons at the back for looping up skirts.

looped up, polonaised skirt.

With belt...

With skirts let down.

Look! Pockets!

18th Century Dress - the Plan

The plan is for this dress is it will be able to adapt to several 'cosplays' as well as working for historical events in the future.  I started with researching the era on pinterest. I also check to see what I had enough fabric of in my 'stash'.

The red dress above seen in the scarlet pimpernel was just what I had in mind. It can be dressed up or down and I love the combination of the black fichu with the red gown.

I then found a pattern in the book that would give me a close enough look. (I think this is the original garment). I wanted to be able to polonaise the skirts so I could wear it down or up with a shorter skirt for a more piratical ensemble. The sleeves are shorter than the one in the pimpernel as I have found that comicons are always boiling hot and stuffy inside. And when you wear a fichu as well as all the requisite layers its probably going to be pretty toasty.




Cosplays this could work for include:

• Pirates of the carribean
• Queen of Hearts
• Clockwork Droid
• Margo Blakeney
• Barmaid victorian clara (I know its not victorian but to the casual observer not aquainted with historical fashion it would work)
• Marie Antoinette

Going Medieval! A new idea!

I've finally done it after procrastinating for ages after my first attempt at a medieval dress failed when I was first starting to sew, I've started my medieval dress.
Its for a comicon of course. The concept is Merida meets Hawkeye. Medieval Heroine.

so taking the dress shape from this

And purple and black colours from this

I've been researching the sewing/drafting techniques for a while but felt daunted by it especially creating a bust supporting gown. So I made a slightly fitted 'tunic' instead. I used the instructions from Sally Pointers website as a basic reference. I didn't have 60" fabric available so I did a different layout. I also made my sleeves 'short' with eyelets so I can lace the other part of the sleeve on. Like in Merida's dress. My dress will be front laced.

Concept idea

I'm also going to make a 'hood' to wear - and disguise that I'm wearing glasses - and buy a toy bow and arrow set. I'll need to make something to carry 'arrows' in and a little pouch to carry 'coin' etc. 
I have choice when it comes to shoes of ankle or knee boots. I can wear my generic shift underneath the dress too.

I noticed in this painting on this blog those tied on sleeves appear again...in conjunction with the front lacing.

The colour dress in the above image matches the fabric a bit more that I've used.

UPDATE: This idea is evolving each time I hit a hurdle. So as I'm struggling with the sleeves if I can't get tie on sleeves to work I'm just make the dress sleeveless.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #1 - Make Do & Mend (Dorothy Dress)

The Challenge: #1 Make do & Mend
Fabric: Gingham
Pattern: None. Self Drafted.
Year: 1939/1900
Notions: Plastic boning. Zipper. Buttons. RikRac Trim.
How historically accurate is it? Depends when its accurate to...I like to think its close to the film version.
Hours to complete: 15 Hours.
First worn: N/A
Total cost: N/A (made from my stash)

The book The Wonderful Wizard of Oz was printed in 1900, the film The Wizard of Oz was released in 1939. The film looked like it was a 1930's view of the 1900s outfits. I didn't have any silver shoes...so I went for the film costume as my reference.

Well my kirtle didn't turn out as planned. So I thought Make Do & Mend. I'll reuse the bodice and also use up some of my fabric stash.

Making do with the fabric I had available and mending my mistake with the bodice. This was my first time using boning so I didn't know quite how to place them for best effect.

Bodice before decoration

I used the red gingham as lining. And used my blue gingham as my exterior fabric. I made the skirts slightly A-line and gathered at the waist. I'm going to use a zipper for the back for ease of dressing.

Now I like the long length which would be more 1900's style...but as I want to use this for dancing it will have to be the shorter length.

I put a few tucks in and then a wide hem. That way if later I decide I want it long I can let it down.

 It's shown here on dress form with my 50's petticoat just so you could see the tucks properly.