HSF 2014 - Challenge #22 - Menswear (18thC Shirt)

The Challenge: #22 Menswear

Fabric: Linen & cotton

Pattern: Self drafted using knowledge of making shifts and images on pinterest of exhaunt shirts

Year: 18th century, but could pass for earlier and later as its ment to be a generic pirate shirt

Notions: Buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it? Well I used linen which is correct fabric, I used period shirts as reference, but I machine sewed the main seams for speed. I also found I didn't have enough linen so I had to make cuff and collar out of 100% cotton.

Hours to complete: Took me two days of sewing mixture of machine and hand sewing.
First worn: for fittings

Total cost: Approx. £20

Notes: This item although its a "man's" shirt will be worn by me (female). Its for a pirate costume I have an idea for...plus a poet style shirt comes in handy for different outfits and it would make a cosy nighty.

I didn't have enough linen to make the whole shirt. So the collar and cuffs are 100% cotton instead.

Added a little button on the front so I can wear the nack open if I want too.

Shirts and collars...now with wings! Part 2

I started off with my 'go to' shirt pattern. It had a 'collarless' option which helped. I did however cut large side seams so I could adjust the fit a little and move the darts.

I tried pinching out all the excess material. Left it like that for a day or two just to see if I liked the fit of it. But soon got rid of the 'tucks' in back and front. It was making it more bodice like and less shirt like. As you can see in the image above I also started trying out collar shapes.

I cut my sleeve a little longer than the original then borrowed the cuff and some of the sleeve marking from another shirt pattern. The easy stitch n save version of this one. Lets not go into detail but I really struggled with the sleeves. Ended up with the contiuous lap being wrong...well its not quite like my RW shirts. lol! And sewing one sleeve inside out....which I had to unpick and re-sew.
Now to start on the detachable able collar.

 Initially I cut the shape above. but when I tried it on myself the collar was too high. I couldn't really move.

So I slimmed it down the top of the collar, tapering it towards centre back. I think I could have made it even narrower but I got fed up of just playing with it. I topstiched the collar and added the buttonholes. Three in total. One at the back two at the front.

I haven't got the right studs so I instead used the button on back of the collar and buttonhole on the detachable collar. And for the above images its just pinned at the front till I can get the studs.

With a makeshift cravat

Improvised 'stud' Split Pin

Shirts and collars...now with wings!

Sorry that just sprung to mind when I was searching for a winged collar to finish off my Doctor Who costume. ;)

I looked everywhere for a ladies winged shirt. Nowhere could I find one. I was contemplating buying a men's one and adjusting it. When it dawned on me I could just get my 'go to' shirt pattern and modify the collar. The thing is I needed the flat plan of collar shape to at least reference.
Doing my research I came up with a few images.
This one shoes a detachable collar detached and yay I can see the back. And this one the collarless shirt.
Looks like if I add a button hole to back of the collarless shirt and corresponding button on the stand up collar then find some way of attaching the front. Maybe I can cheat and used a split pin?

I also managed to take a look at some collars at the Beamish Museum and ask a few questions on holiday. Should have taken come close ups really. Also stumbled across a blog post from someone making one (at last).
Looking at the top image and comparing it to a few book images. I think his style of collar is maybe Newmarket?

Historical people I'm sure you'll know.....
Next question is sleeves I have a shirt pattern in my stash with long sleeves and cuffs. eeep! Cuffs. One of my nemisis. Those will not be detachable though.

Doctor Who Outfit - Final Design

Finally got all my patterns and most of my fabric. Some greeny-brown suiting and also some gold lining for the waistcoat.

For my waistcoat I'm using Mcalls 6149 (link)

For the jacket S&S Beatrix Jacket (link).

I wasn't able to find green in the shop so went for some burgandy fabric and suede type fabric for contrast collar.
I just need to draft myself the walking skirt (in same fabric as the waistcoat or in the grey not sure yet.).
My concept Image....looking a bit steampunk-ish. lol! Or maybe its a bit 'Charley Pollard Edwardian adventuress'?

Style 2769 - winter blouse

I've started on my winter blouse using my fave pattern 'style 2769'. Using the view top left.

3/4 length sleeves and stand up collar (2). I was going to do the turned back collar but couldn't be bothered to cut out all the extra pieces. I will be adding a pocket too like in the view bottom right (4).

The majority of the blouse will be the polkadot material but collar facings and sleeve cuffs with be in the plain cream.

What gets me with this pattern every time is the instructions aren't in a logical order. Seems to jump about a bit. But I do like the paper pattern itself.

So I started on the sleeves. It took a bit of experimentation as the instructions confused me when it came to adding a cuff to the sleeve.

Now I added one sleeve to the bodice and its looking a bit awkward. I'm not sure how it should sit. the pitch seems off.

Maybe I have done the old two left/right arm sleeves thing again?

SImplicity 3847 Shirt - Part 4

I took the sleeves off and adjusted them to make them cap sleeves, so I didn't have to re cut them. (Quick thank you shout goes to MrsC at Hectic Eclectic for her helpful advice).

If I do this pattern again I shall use a sleeve pattern from another shirt. As the ones that came with this one have been a nightmare.

I have also marked out and made a start on the buttonholes. They take ages by hand don't they?

Will get back to them...just got distracted by the skirt. lol!

Simplicity 3847 - the shirt - part 3

I shall now bring you up to date on this project.

Sleeve

First I sewed the sleeve as per instructions. It said to hem the 'cuff' before attaching to armhole.

I eased the sleevehead pinning it in place....

Pinning sleeve in armhole

Then sewed both sleeves....

sleeve from top

Now here is the complete shirt..well almost complete buttonholes still to be done.

front

Front (inside out)

Back (inside out)

Back

I have a little problem. When trying it on I found my arm movement was severely restricted. If I tried to lift arms up and 90 degrees the armband dug into my arm. Thus I seem to be stuck with arms at my side with it. I cut the pattern accurately and followed the instructions. 

sleeve shown inside out

Why is it not working?

Is there adjustments that need to be made....what are they?

To me it seemed like they needed to be wider at the armband....is this assumption correct?

Simplicity 3847 - the shirt - part 2

So thanks to some help and suggestions from a sewing forum I have got past the stage I was stuck on.

But before I come to that lets review...

I stay stitched the collar and sewed in the darts.

Then sewed up sides and shoulders.

I then sew to work on the collar and facing. I machine stitched at first as that's what the instructions said..but soon gave up when it prooved too tricky for me to sew with any accuracy. Very long stright seams is one thing on a machine but small curved shapes are just too hard. Got much neater result sewing it by hand...don't care if it takes me a week to make.

pinned and sewed 'hem' on facing

 (small note here I did accidentily fold over the wrong side and sew it - then had toseam rip it and start again)

Pinned on collar.

Sewing by hand enabled me to use blanket and herringbone stitches at some poinds for both decorative effect and neatness.

Herringbone

Blanket

I ended up attaching collar in the way I thought it fitted rather than as I thought I'd diciphered from the pattern.

So here is the shirt as it stands. needs pressing again.

But next step is sleeves....then buttonholes. Two things I haven't sewn before. And I'm doing it all by hand rather than machine.

Simplicity 3847 - the shirt - part 1

So after buying the fabric I dove stright in and cut out the fabric. Before we get to that lets take a step back. Cutting diagrams...anyone else find them confusing?

Confused face???

I wasn't sure weather I needed to cut the fabric into two peices then lay the pattern out? And I couldn't remeber if selvadge was cut or uncut edge...In the end I folded the end of the fabric and cut a bit at a time.

Folding over the end just enough for each section so as to save fabric.

Hope this was right. The interfacing may be my downfall. As you now the grainline on the pattern peice it didn't match the grainline on the interfacing (not on the bias just 90degrees to the right of the grain)..but I was trying to fit as much on as little as possible.

I fused the interfacing to the fabric...I really have to work on my cutting accuracy. And voila!

Next to sew it together. I'm still dreading the buttonholes. Actually there's a question...there was a pattern peice with buttonholes marked on but it wasn't on the cutting diagram. What am I supposed to do with it?


Just getting stressed out by collars and facings...the instructions contradict everything other sources say. Maybe I'm just misreading the rubbish diagrams. (Below is my sketch outlining issues)