I moved a dart - major achievement!

Just a little bonus post for you all. I've been wondering why my tops never look right despite choosing the right size etc. It dawned on me yesterday. The darts were wrong.

It mean tops slide 'up' all the time. I even noticed my (non knit) RTW clothes did it as well.

So first I took the pattern for a top I wanted to make (the portrait blouse from GNBFBS) and did my trial and error method. See the long dart in image. Problem was it wasn't accurate enough.

So I looked up the 'proper' way of doing it. Traced the existing dart and pivoted it up to the place I'd found using trial and error method. Taped it in place.

Tried it out and tissue fitted. Seemed ok to me.

Next step is to make a wearable mock up of the blouse.

On a side note I did raise the neckline and will be adding a peter pan collar and sleeves (added about 1.5cm to the armhole- hope that's right).

Vintage/Retro Sewing Wishlist

Well I thought I'd make another list for Autumn/Winter...so I can plan what fabrics to buy.

First off I want a 'suit' well I'd use it more like coat with matching skirt.

Going to use simplicity 4044 again. I like the Blue suit below.

I'm thinking of doing it in blue wool blend with blue polkadot lining. 

But then simplicity 3688 is closer in style. (I have to admit I bought 4044 by accident thinking it was 3688)

What do you think?

I could make a matching blouse from Style 2769. View with sleeves & collar.

And yes still haven't braved trying to make trousers.

Also on my list is the dress Butterick 5209. Intended as a summer frock though. Might pass for autumn/spring.

I also want to have another go at sewing the collette Jasmine blouse.

When I'm not in a rush working to a deadline.

so there's my current list...if I can just finish that regency dress...

Thoughts on vintage & retro patterns

Just to start in this context I'm using 'vintage' to mean original and 'retro' to mean modern reproduction of a 'vintage' pattern.

I have to admit to following a lot of blogs where both vintage and retro patterns are sewn. 'Its the 30's and 40's patterns I look at and think 'I want that dress'. But *whispers* I don't like 2nd hand...even patterns...I know I'm just weird like that. There seems to be such a varied selection out there but looking at the big pattern companies retro releases you'd think there was only 50's style. 

I wish they would take note of the more stylish patterns from earlier eras. They all seem to be based on fitted bodice & circle skirt combinations with of course a few exceptions. I for one have used simplicity 4044 suit pattern several times now...but can I find a matching shirt/blouse pattern I think is nice (yes I know 3688 but I need a V neck on tops...high necks just make me look out of proportion).

I don't want a 'costume' I want something I can wear *everyday*. I don't want 'pin up' I want to look like your average person. Like you would actually see in photos of ordinary people of the era.

And another thing what happened to the 20's & 30's they seem sorely neglected when it comes to patterns!?

And what's so wrong with doing separates rather than dresses all the time?

If I want anything with style and practicality it seems to be the smaller pattern producers that are listening to the market rather than pumping out yet another dress that would look at home on the set of grease. I have enough "50's" outfits (they do take up lots of room in the wardrobe don't they?) 

The only newly released pattern that has appealed to me as a little different is simplicity 1777...although I'm afraid the 'ruched front' will look a little ridiculous on me.

I don't mean for this to be a rant...but living in the UK I find it so expensive to get hold of patterns from abroad. I wish I had the skills to draft something with complexity (yes for me anything more than a vest top is complex).

* additional note I like Simplicity instructions but Butterick 'fit'. Have yet to try to make up a Vogue pattern.

Its ok...I'll go back in my box now.

Follower milestone - Sewing Pattern Giveaway!

I have 13 whole followers (well 12 really as one of the followers is me but lets not quibble over such things.)

I'd like get up to 20 followers at least...I'm not greedy.

I'm afraid as I don't have a bit stash of patterns I only currently have 1 to give away.

Simplicity K2588

Size 12-20

I accidentally ended up with two copies...long story so I have ONE spare to give away for FREE....yep that's free.

All you have to do is link to my blog from your blog letting people know its there. Then as a reply post where you posted the link...if that makes sense? You have till the 1st July 2012 at Midnight GMT to enter. When I will pick a post-er as a winner.

So get posting! :)

Making Modern look Vintage

This is something I love doing. Taking the modern and combining it in a way that looks retro. I've done it with clothes bought from the shops for a while now. But since I've started sewing I have been doing the same with my pattern choices.

Choosing the patterns that have the most versatile silhouettes that I can use to recreate the 'shape' and 'feel' of each era.

1920's

1930's

Simplicity 2249 has potential

Vogue 1186 would make some great pallazio pants

And Simplicity1799..although made longer.

1940's

I have this shirtwaister simplicity 2246

although I think 2923 has better shape

And the shoulders on this one shouts 40's to me.

1950's

There's always a plethera of 50's inspired patterns

I think butterick 5641 would be a good one to choose. There's also B4443, and maybe B4386 for very late 50's early 60's?

Anyone else got favourite modern patterns that give vintage/retro impressions?

Vintage Sewing - contest 2012 (Style 2516)

So I've picked the pattern 'Style 2516' its from 1978. 

Just to proove it is from 1978 and fits the criteria a photo of the copyright date

Update 1:

So I didn't get round to getting new material and just went with what I had. I've made a start. Seems quite straightforward.

Fabric and two choices of buttons

One thing I've noticed there's no interfacing in the collar or cuffs like in the other shirts/blouses I've made before. So it will be interesting to see what difference it makes.

Just a point as the pattern had been used before it had a few tares which meant I had to be a bit carefull cutting out.

Update 2:
Pinning stuff together ready for stitching. I'm noticing unlike modern patterns this set of instructions tells you to sew the sides of the blouse up last after you do the collar.

Update 3:
Sewed the darts. Stay Stitches. Facing and shoulders of the blouse. All I need to do now is attach facing to blouse, sew up the sides and add the sleeves...then do the dreaded buttonholes.

Tried the in progress blouse on for size....fits surprisingly well. Realized that if I'd done the facing in contrasting colour I could have had contrasting collar.

Update 4:
Nearly finished just dreaded buttonholes to do. Sleeves seem ok..and the collar is sitting flat as I want it to. I think in future I won't use interfacing in collars....makes them too stiff for my liking.

Chose the pink ones in the end.

wondered if the buttons should be placed differently

Update 5:
Now for some pictures as I've finished the blouse. Yay!

My project list 2012

....seeing Stitch and Witters post about getting distracted erm...distracted me. lol!
I got the urge to go out and buy fabric.

Isn't the floral fabric Fab?

Now I really need to get organized and make a list...prioritize.


Project: Vintage Pattern competition Blouse
Fabric: my pink dotty patterned fabric.
Notions: Pink buttons
Deadline: Yes   When: April 15th 2012
Completed on: 6th April 2012
Link to post

Project: 1920's style drop waist tunic dress
Fabric: Navy blue polycotton
Notions: white bias binding, mother of pearl buttons - or might buy some gold ones
Deadline: Yes  When: May 2012
Completed on:
Link to post

Project: Horrockses Dress
Fabric: Pink Gingham and Pink polycotton for lining
Notions: zip, hook and eye
Deadline: No
Completed on:
Link to post

Project: Regency Dress (design not confirmed)
Fabric: floral print poly cotton/lining needed
Notions: unknown
Deadline: Yes  When: September 2012
Completed on:

Link to post
Project: Tie
Fabric: unknown
Notions: unknown

Project: Skirt
Fabric: unknown
Notions: zip

Project: Waistcoat
Fabric: unknown
Notions: unknown

Sewing Vintage

Well folks I'm going to have a go at some genuinely vintage patterns not retro reissues but genuinely old. They even smell all musty and have been cut out.

I erm.... bit the bullet and entered the vintage contest at sewing pattern review...Eep! Tis scary.

Firstly got to make sure one of the patterns I've picked out fits the criteria. Has to be 1978 or earlier in date.

Choice 1

Choice 2

Choice 3

Those are my 3 options...although my plan B is to do the 1920's house dress from the pattern archive.

The vintage patterns will involve me having to 'grade' the size up as they are 2-3 sizes too small.

I've never done this before so hopefully if its successful will be a new skill learned.

Speedy patterns...taking time

So I was looking at this pattern in my stash.

Now it says '2 hour pattern' and I like patterns to be quick. In the past I've found these 'speed' claims rather inaccurate. As an 'improver' sewer (not absolute beginner but not intermediate yet) and a slightly impatient one at that I find any time given usually needs to be doubled at least and in my case as I spread my sewing out it ends up adding up to 4 times the time.

I'm hoping once I get the fabric to make up 'A' in some pretty art deco print fabric if I can find it...and folks I will be timing it. I don't count time taken to cut out the paper pattern as I generally do that in advance so I'm not messing about with it on the day. I've also found its quicker to cut fabric out if you mark with chalk then cut rather than pinning the paper pattern in place and cutting round that.

Can anyone point me too some good examples to 20's looking fabric? As again I'm taking a fairly modern pattern and trying to make it look vintage.
Still got a little time as I don't plan to make it till May time.

Edit: Guess what I spotted? Seems I'm going to be on trend. Didn't I tell you before dropped waists were going to be in..

Simplicity 4044 - 1940's Retro Skirt

Review of Retro Skirt Pattern & Results

My Virtually Finished Skirt - just need hemming

So this is the first pattern I've managed to complete with no help! Really Pleased. It shall now become one of my staple patterns.

 First I bought my fabric. I saw it in the shop and just have to have it. Might buy some more and make a matching bolero jacket. The pink fabric is for another project.

Using the simplicity pattern. Quite simple to cut out. didn't get confused with the cutting layout this time as I ignored it and did it how it looked right as it was quite logical.

Stay stitched then put in darts and sewed the panels together.

Sewed the facing...which was a bit odd but quite stright forward.

From Outside

From Inside

Sewed my first zip...did it all by hand. Prefer zips to buttons so much quicker.

 Sewed on the facing it wasn't quite long enough one side but too long the other?

But then I'd sewn quite skinny seams so it might have thrown it out a bit.

 Took a bit of thought how to sew the facing on dip in the centre.

I know a bit scruffy but its on the inside.

 This is the centre front 'dip' not sure if I like it or not.

Finished all bar deciding on length and hemming it. It it come out pretty long. So I may have to cut some of my hard work to make it shorter before I hem it.

Overall though. Success!

Pattern Score: 9/10

Some purchases

Well I couldn't go the whole day there without buying something...
So I have some more patterns

The blouse is like the blouses I buy, waiscoat as an intro to tailoring, the tunic dress as could make good 20's dress, and last dress coz it looked like it could pass for retro.

Also bough some lovely buttons

And some more needles, pins and a seam ripper (I lost the other one down side of the sofa).

Simplicity 3847 - the shirt - part 2

So thanks to some help and suggestions from a sewing forum I have got past the stage I was stuck on.

But before I come to that lets review...

I stay stitched the collar and sewed in the darts.

Then sewed up sides and shoulders.

I then sew to work on the collar and facing. I machine stitched at first as that's what the instructions said..but soon gave up when it prooved too tricky for me to sew with any accuracy. Very long stright seams is one thing on a machine but small curved shapes are just too hard. Got much neater result sewing it by hand...don't care if it takes me a week to make.

pinned and sewed 'hem' on facing

 (small note here I did accidentily fold over the wrong side and sew it - then had toseam rip it and start again)

Pinned on collar.

Sewing by hand enabled me to use blanket and herringbone stitches at some poinds for both decorative effect and neatness.

Herringbone

Blanket

I ended up attaching collar in the way I thought it fitted rather than as I thought I'd diciphered from the pattern.

So here is the shirt as it stands. needs pressing again.

But next step is sleeves....then buttonholes. Two things I haven't sewn before. And I'm doing it all by hand rather than machine.