Pencil skirts and tartan

Yes, I am finally going to start the tartan pencil skirt. There were various colours to choose from but I went for blue. My hat is blue, my coat is blue...so why not my skirt.

I'm using the pattern for high waisted pencil skirt from 'gerties new book for better sewing'.
Not sure I can rock the socks and shoes look myself but a smart winter skirt is just what my wardrobe has been missing. And I might aswell start at the beginning with the first pattern.

I chose the (60" wide) tartan and then some poly silk haboutai for the interlining. It sounds such an easy process so I want to give that type of lining a try. I've even bought some self covering buttons in case I need them. I've got a zip in stock.

I cut the skirt out to find I had enough fabric to make 2 skirts if I wanted. lol! Well -I thought- handy if I make a mistake.
I cut generously so I could adjust the fit while wearing it to allow more ease. I added about 1cm to each seam...and it was quite comfy to sit down in.

Started sewing it up. If I was using a machine it would have been very quick but as I hand sew everything it took longer. Especially as I wanted to do it properly so used the hong kong seam finish from the book. Cut bias strips from the silky blue fabric to encase the fraying material. As I decided instead of lining the skirt I would wear a slip.

I also decided to stay stitch the waistband. I've had problems with waistbands stretching before. Plus the tartan frays like mad but is nice to sew by hand.

The waistband took a bit of figuring out as I was using different material for inside and outside didn't want to get it backwards. lol! I will admit seam ripped and re sewed once as I got it the wrong way round. lol!

I of course hand sewed the zip. Was supposed to be 'invisible' but as always it doesn't stay in place and gapes and shows the teeth of the zip however close I sew.

I used a hook and eye I took of an old jacket instead of a button as I suspected trying to do a buttonhole in the tartan material would be a nightmare with fraying.

all that was left was to hem it.

Voila!

My first pencil skirt - Part 1

You may say 'first'? Yep. Well first I've sewn. Always felt daunted by them being so fitted. The only RTW pencil skirt I like is my stretchy grey wool one with matching braces I got in a sale many years ago when I was a dress size or two bigger.

Now lets go back to the start....I treated myself to 'Gertie's new book for better sewing'.

Source:  http://www.blogforbettersewing.com

I haven't had much luck with sewing books in the past. Its always buy a machine, thread a machine and follow pattern. Which as a hand sewer frustrated me. I wanted the proper sewing techniques...and not just that I wanted to know how to make patterns fit and draft my own. So far I've been muddling along using trial and error but I wanted to know the correct way...even if I then ignored it and did it my own way at least I'd be making a conscious decision. I also wanted to be told if you do this you get this result, not 'buy a special foot for your sewing machine'.

In Gertie's book I found exactly what I had been searching for actual sewing techniques....and as a bonus timeless stylish patterns that I would wear. Looking achievable too. Not too many specialist materials to find and with suggestions on alterations. I'm already looking at the patterns and seeing how I can alter them to create the garments I want.
(There's a particular outfit from a film I think I could get close too by combining one of the skirts and blouses...if I can figure out how to get the sleeves I want).

From sky's the limit

Back to the pencil skirt. After reading the book it just seemed so simple...so I rummaged through my sewing cupboard and came up with a metre of 45" wide quilting cotton*.

Managed to cut out the pieces, sew the darts and tack the seams in one evening.

Tried the skirt on pinned it close. All was well till I tried to sit down.
Ping! The pin went flying across the room.
Erm...a little more ease needed (as you can tell I have this issue with pencil skirts). Add another inch when I cut out my 'mystery fabric'. I bought it ages ago and neglected to write down what it was...its navy blue with a bit of 'give' in it without being deliberately stretchy. I'll be lining it with polycotton so shouldn't irritate me.
So I hope to get back to the pencil skirt next week.

*yes I am aware I'm mixing metric and imperial measurements.


Addition:
I saw a tartan maxi skirt on tv...suddenly got the urge - with the cold weather - to make a tartan pencil skirt.

Learning to make clothes

Sewing and Clothes Making
I consider them two different skills. I can sew by hand quite competently and sometimes prettily as you can see from my embroidery. I can even make a quilt without too much fuss and hats work for me.

But fitting, constructing and completing an outfit I find extremely difficult. Altering patterns to fit my shape (I don't seem to be anywhere near pattern makers model) take me ages to do and a lot of it has been a bit trial and error. Once everything is cut and pinned I'm fine and can happily sew away (if I'm impatient using machine...if not I prefer to sew by hand).

Now I have issues with come items of clothing as I can't fit them on my own (and until I get the space I can't get a dressform either shop bought or homemade). So in the meantime I have decided to try and work on some skills and have chosen 2 projects to help with this (see previous post about my 40's/50's style spring plans).

- The 40's skirt which involves learning to do a zip. Which to get round fit problems I'm doing a test version and fitting it on mum (she gets to keep it of course).
- A simple blouse which involves buttonholes. I'll be able to adjust the front and hope the back is ok. lol!
I'm doing both things by hand as my sewing machine is only basic.

Now to get back to what I was gonna say. Recently I found on the BBC site and archive with some old programs about sewing from the 60's. I found the instruction very clear. I now know how to sew a collar...well in theory anyway, I won't know till I actually do it.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/archive/whatwewore/5601.shtml
Its such a shame they don't do programs like that anymore.

I also have just got through the post The dressmakers technique bible. After a skim read it looks like it has all the info I need.

Now all I have to do is go fabric shopping....of course that's the bit I like the most.