18th Century bodice sloper...well nearly

After finishing my 18thC stays (yes there's a post coming about them) instead of making the shift like a good girl I skipped stright to the fun part the dress. I know the petticoats are super quick and easy to do. But it was the bodice I needed to work on.
So I started with patterns of fashion. Scaling up one of the bodices for the dresses. This did not work.

When I laid it on my stays it didn't look right or like up without drastic modification. Plus the armhole was a odd shape.
So back to the drawing board..literally. I draw out patterns leaningon a board. lol! I started with tracing round the pannels of my stays. Then I added to the centre back about 1-2inches. To the CF about 3 inches. Raised the neckline front and back. Then shorterned the bottom edge to the waistline (that's the bit above the tabs). Now I pin fitted and found I needed to take a large pleat out of the back. So I turned it into a seamline instead.

This was the result. Now I cut out in fabric. And machine tacked it together. Cut out 2 strips to be straps which I sewed on the back, but pinned on the front.
Tried it on again with the stays, adjused the straps and found I had to slightly alter the back seams.

 My high rounded shoulders strike again.

 So far its looking ok.

Well apart from the front but my dress for isn't adjustable so it won't fit as its not my shape with stays. Not on the front neckline. I found myself pinning the neckline lower...but that is only comfortable if I wear a fichu.

I also had a bash at trying to draft sleeves...my nemisis. I won't know the result till I cut the toile sleeves.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #5 - Bodice (bustle era bodice) EPIC FAIL!

The Challenge: #5 Bodice

Fabric: polycotton, calico

Pattern: none. self drafted.

Year: 1880's

Notions: boning, buttons, hook & eye

How historically accurate is it? N/A

Hours to complete: N/A

First worn:N/A

Total cost:N/A

So as part of the overall ensemble I'm making I need a bodice. Not having a commercial pattern on hand I decided to use the instructions in 'Draping Period Costumes' to create one from scratch.

 In my toile I changed a waist dart into a seam so I can hide a pocket there.

 Initially I tried to put in two darts but only seem to be able to put in one without messing up the fit.
But I needed 2 darts for the accuracy...so after getting some help from other HSF participants I decided to try it on myself wearing the right foundations. Managed to take out front waist seam and create 2 bust darts.

I wanted pockets...lots of pockets as it would save carrying a large bag around all day. Transfered the fabric pattern to paper...ready to work on the next stage.

That was when I realised if I wanted to do the faux waistcoat I'd need to change one of the darts into a princess seam.

Now to cut out the interlining which would also be my toile.
 I managed to make it look ok but when I transferred to calico it just didn't look right.

Not sure what was wrong. So I took it apart and started again...

 I used the trick I'd read about taping in the bones on a mock up to try it on.

The shape was looking closer to what I wanted. It looks better on me than the dressform.

Made a few alterations to the neckline and armhole. Then added the sleeves.

Then after double checking the fit. I undid all my hard work and unpicked the seams. Ironed out the peices ready to use to flatline the bodice.

I then tacked the main seams together and pinned others so I can check the fit again before I sew in place.

I ended up needing to split the back so it would fit over the extra padding (see above). I'll also need to add a waist stay in addition to the bones to keep the bodice waistline in place or else I get some gapping.

 I also pinned my bustle drapery on to see how it would look.

The bodice was looking ok...still think its a bit stocky queen victoria in shape.

Looks ok from the side but from the front....it looks awful.

This was the point at which I gave up. No amount of tweaking and reworking was going to make it look acceptable. The skirt was all wrong. The bodice made me look dumpy. the neckline was wonkey and I'd cut too much off the length.
It goes on the FAIL pile.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #5 - Bodice (1790's 'Jumps')

The Challenge: #5 Bodice

Fabric: Calico

Pattern: I scaled up the pattern from Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen.

Year: 1790's

Notions: boning, eyelets, bias binding, lacing.

How historically accurate is it? well the pattern is based on exhaunt corset c.1790 held at Hereford Museum. So the 'cut' is right. But I used modern boning, metal eyelets and partially sewed on machine.

Hours to complete: Took me several evenings.

First worn:

Total cost:

 I started by enlarging the pattern in the book by 200%. Measured the 'waist' 29" so almost perfect. Added seam allowances and cut out a toile from leftover polycotton fabric.

Adjusted the side seams slightly and took some fabric off the centre front. Then used that to cut out my 'fashion fabric' some calico.

I added in the boning channels. Sewn on the machine for speed. Once I'd added in the bones I sewed up the side seams and added the straps. then came the tricky bit. I started trying to bias bind the 'tabs' but it did my fingers in hand sewing it. (Yes I'm not following the instructions in the book). So I turned over each tab and did a small hem. I did however bias bind the top edge. Started by hand sewing but my fingers were so sore I finished on the machine.
I then used a kit of adding eyelets - the kind you hit with a hammer- first to the straps and then to the CF.

I wanted to spiral lace it... so I tried to off set the eyelets....unfortunately I wasn't good at getting them to align. Every time I hit the hammer the fabric moved. lol!

 I then laced up the stays on the dress form over my new chemise.

 The back looked good although I think the CB bone needed to be longer.

I added my petticoat on top to finish off the look. Of course I can't lace it shut on the dress form but looks like a good enough fit.

Simplicity 4990 - Bodice

As I have done most of the bodice - as I'm making it into a dress - I thought I'd review it so far. One thing I need to point out is I usually prefer simplicity patterns for their 'simplicity'. I find them easy to follow compared to others, but this time round I was disappointed. The instructions for the bodice were very confusing. As it referred to back front without clarifying if it was the lining or the fashion fabric.

This led to a few mistakes which I had to fix. So lets point out the problems and solutions. I did I admit end up with my own vague interpretation of the instructions.

First off I pinned all the lining together and sewed it up...only to realize later that what I needed to do was (after unpicking one side) just sew the curved back bits to the main back, and the curved front bits to the front. This needs to be done separately on the lining and fashion fabric.

Then put right side of fashion fabric to right side of lining. Back section to back section, front to front.

Then sew long armholes, straps and neckline ONLY on both front and back. Then you can turn straps inside out and press. The next bit is clear enough in the instructions.

Its all ready now for me to add the zip. Which I won't do till I attach the skirt which has now been cut out. I went for the pattern accompanying skirt. But will be making it sit a little higher and tried to be generous with the cutting.

Update:

I cut out the skirt to find right in the middle the fabric was threadbare an a small patch. Grrr! Now I'm going to have to buy more material and re-cut the skirt. Which means delays again.

Update 2:
So...I decided to make it as a bodice on its own just like original pattern...well apart from the sweetheart neckline.

adapted neckline

zip

back

front finished

It ain't what you do, its the way that you do it...

aka. I'm getting creative with patterns.

I was looking everywhere for a simple bodice with a sweetheart neckline. Like in the sketch below.

Was planning on matching it with skirt or crop trousers/shorts for the summer.
And what happens...I go look in the back of the cupboard and there hidden away was simplicity 4990.

Not only a top but a nice swishy skirt too. Now there are several changes I need to make.
1) using the bodice with thick straps but making the neckline sweetheart.
2) The pattern has a zip in the side seam. I really don't like side zips so will have to move the zip to the back.

Fabric choice
I had my lovely blue floral fabric in mind originally for the top and my left over navy blue fabric for the skirt. But I bought 3 metres of some pretty floral cotton on a whim and it might just be able to cover making the top and skirt in matching fabric. Then I thought rather than skirt and top I could make a dress. Dilemma!

Two fabric choices

I have a zip long enough for a dress so the idea has potential.

Mockup
I've so far used some left over pink fabric to sew a mock up to check the fit, and test out moving the zip. If all goes according to plan I'll use it as a lining.

Skills
On my skills list I'll be able to add princess seams and lining a bodice. Still sticking to trying to choose projects that will teach me new sewing skills in order to build up a portfolio of skills I can use later.

Update:

I decided to make it into a dress and use the pink gingham.  Pictures to come.

I also have stubled upon a wonderful shop which is selling the kinda top I was hoping to make here. Unfortunately none left in my size. :( But I did pick up some nice bargains in their sale.