Upgrading old projects - Item 1

Well as I've reccently found myself in the situation where buying new material isn't an option. Its forced me to sew from my stash and go back and upgrade older items that I made when I first started sewing.
Item 1 - My first shift/chemise

 This was sewn before I had my dress form. So it was a lot of guesswork.

 And although it fitted me, the neckline was way too high for all my dresses.

Plus I'd turned oved the edge rather than using bias binding which had resulted in an ugly looking finish.
So...I unpicked the stitching. Removed the ribbon. Recut the neckline, low and square.

 Used bias binding to create casing for ribbon. Rethreaded the ribbon and finished the ends.

 And voila!

I now have a shift that can go under wider necklines.

Advice for Regency on a budget and not looking for absolute accuracy

SO realising I've not just got to make my new frock, spencer and bonnet...(and another shift) and maybe a chemisette. I have to make a set of clothes for someone else as well its dawning on me I need to plan.

So Basics - I need list of what is needed then what I can buy and what I can make and what I can bodge. Actually a nice guide for a first timer who doesn't want to look like they raided fancy dress up box but doesn't have time, funds or skill to make everything spot on accurate.

Apologies in advance to all those who always want historical accuracy. But I'm not a living historian - this is for 'fun'- so I think compromises can be made. ;)

Clothing:

1. Shift
This can be made.
Alternative - T-shirt will do (I used that and vest tops last time).
2. Stays/Bodiced petticoat
Short stays can be made but I'm not happy with fitting someone else other than me.
Alternative - Good Bra and bodiced petticoat.
3. Chemisette/Fichu/Shirt
Can make all of them but depends on choice.
Alternative - I can modify cotton shirts (H&M do the right kind)
4. Dress (yep now the fun part)
Have 2 commercial patterns I can use (1 accurate, 1 not) plus the version I'm drafting (bib front).
Alternative - You could modify a maxi dress but I'm actually going to sew these dresses properly.
5. Spencer/Pelisse
I haven't got a pattern for one (currently drafting my own).
Alternative -  Find a jacket close enough then chop it up to crop it.
6. Bonnet/Cap
Make from scratch using buckram etc. Or sew the capote or turban hats.
Alternative - Convert cheap straw hat from fancy dress shop
7. Sash/Shawl
Make one/Buy One
8. Shoes
Buy expensive accurate ones
Alternative - Cheap pumps from a well known cheap clothing shop
9. Gloves/fingerless gloves
Sew them from pattern
Alternative - Buy from fancy dress shop
10. Reticule
Simple and quick to make.
Alternative - You could probably find a drawstring wash bag.
11. Fan
Buy wood one and paint it.
Alternative - buy any one from cheap shop
12. Stockings
Well you could by proper ones.
Alternative - Tights (Mine were light pink) or long (knee high) socks.

So going the alternative route you could find most of that in your wardrobe already or in cheap shops.

For myself I only need to sew 1 4 5 6 10 (and they are just updates really). Half my problem is not knowing what the weather will be like.

Some Winterwear planning

My annual plan stuff for winter post. This time I actually have a clear idea of what I'm after. Plus fours. Well I have knee high boots (yes I actually found a pair that would fit). So I wanted some trousers that would show off the boots.

These ladies with boot friendly trousers and knitwear

I also have a cloche hat...well ok I have four. Two are knitted, one is felt and one is more spring weight. And I have my shirt I sewed.

I can wear with my tweedy jacket or a long coat. No more wet trouser hems. It's been pointed out to me it could look quite Romana-esque.

Now there's an idea...fairisle long socks.
I was originally thinking of it being more a reference to Matt Smiths Doctor. With the tweed and red hat.
There's a few patterns I've been looking at. Either my fave trouser pattern (swing trousers) or I have a mcalls pattern that's supposed to be steampunk in style.
My initial mock up (wearable) I made modifying the swing trouser pattern as I didn't want a front fly. I used some fabric from my stash cotton with a little lycra so it had some give, but not major stretch.

 I found I couldn't do the 'cuffs' up so left off any closures for them. The plus fours tucked into the boot...but I suspect too much walking and the cuff will work its way out of the boot. So definately needs more length added to each leg.

My experiment has shown me I need to tweak it further.
1) Add another cm on the hips for ease
2) Change the zip from back to side zip.
3) Cut the legs much longer than I expected.
4) Make the leg cuff narrower and add a button.

When I make it next I'll be using my real material which won't have that 'give' in it...hence the need to add more ease. (This is what happens when I don't go to dance class for a month. I expand. lol!)

HSF Challenge #23 Gratitude - Sleeveless Spencer

The Challenge: #23 Gratitude

Fabric: Gold coloured 'silk'.

Pattern: Well I started with the S&S Regency gown pattern as my 'base' and made considerable modifications. Which included shanging the shoulder seam to the back, and added a collar. Also changed gathers to darts.

Year: 1795-1820

Notions: Green ribbon. Gold embroidery thread.

How historically accurate is it? It was inspired by several blog posts by others about sleeveless spencers. This one. This one. And this one.

Hours to complete: about 5-6 hours. all hand sewn.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: I'm not sure it was made from my fabric stash. Can't be more than £5.

Above is my sketch I did of how I wanted it to look. I ended up dropping the peplum at the back I also changed how the closure worked.

I sewed the ribbon all round leaving a 'tie' on one 'flap' and a look on the other. It was pure lazyness as I didn't want to bother with buttons and hook & eye.

I'm fairly please with the result the fabric was a bit of a nightmare to work with...didn't like pins and kept sliding about and fraying....but managed to wrangle it. The only problem was pressing it. It didn't want to lay flat.

HSF Challenge #24 Re-Do - Bib Front Regency Dress

The Challenge: #24 Re-Do

The Challenge you are Re-do-ing: #4 Embelishment

Fabric: Muslin.

Pattern: I used S&S regency gown pattern as my bodice but with modifications (see post below). the skirts were based on the pattern in the janet arnold book patterns of fashion.

Year: 1800-1820 - Regency

Notions: Embroidery floss. Ribbon.

How historically accurate is it? Well I've taken inspiration from both patterns of fashion and costumes in detail. Everything bar the long skirt side seam was done by hand.

Hours to complete: About a week just doing little stints of sewing when I could.

First worn: N/A (its for 2014)

Total cost: approx. £25

The first thing I did was cut out the peices and do the embroidery. I'm really pleased with how the bluebells came out.

After I'd made up the bodice and fitted it...

I then attached the 'skirts' to the 'bib' and then the skirts to the bodice.

Then attached the ribbon 'tie' to the waistband.

I think next time round I will have the skirt further back so the overlap is nearer the sides than the front.

 The skirts were a little too long. So I added in a tuck.

 I then pinned up the hem and thought 'hmmmm....I might need another tuck in there'.

Being lazy I'm gonna leave it for now. I added a waist stay on the inside. Sewed up the hem and ta da! Finished.

Chemisettes - the good, the bad and the ugly

Well I wouldn't say bad more the pretty and the ugly. lol! Been looking up chemisettes for inspiration. Its a fine line between modesty and looking like your being attacked by a monster.
I'm basing the basic idea of mine on the one in patterns of fashion. I'm a bit too lazy to scale up. I just used the shapes for reference and draped it on my dress form.
The pattern calls for a mushroom pleated ruff. Which on looking it up seems a bit tricky. I'm worried I'm going to look like a bird that's swallowed a dinnerplate (to quote blackadder). Which is not good with my proportions.

You can see in the image above there is a more...subtle ruffle round the neckline. I'm wonder if I can re-create the same look?

I've put in some decorative tucks at the centre back.

 I pinned on some lace just to see. What do you think fabric pleated ruffle or lace?

Well I went for the ruffle it just sat better. I pleated it by eye.

Sewed it all by hand...not for historical accuracy but because I like to hand sew. Its only taken me 2 days (well 1 eveing, 1 day).

Here worn with my first regency dress I ever made (the non accurate one) but it does the job.

"it will be a very useful gown, happy to go anywhere"

"I have determined to trim my lilac sarsenet with black satin ribbon just as my China crape is, 6d. width at the bottom, 3d. or 4d., at top. Ribbon trimmings are all the fashion at Bath, and I dare say the fashions of the two places are alike enough in that point to content me. With this addition it will be a very useful gown, happy to go anywhere."

Just as Jane did I've come to the conclusion that for Bath my purple dress needs to be trimmed with black.

 With a black spencer and black bonnet with my purple flower trim and white lining.

I'll wear my black pumps but then have either a white or purple reticule. I already have the right colour umbrella and fan to match. I'm going to have a go at doing some fancy ribbon trim too.

HSF Challenge #21 Green - Green Ribbon Decoration

The Challenge: #21 Green

Fabric: Green Ribbon

Pattern: N/A I read a few tutorials and made it up as I went along.

Year: Regency 1800-1820

Notions: Cameo (actually its what people use for card crafts but seemed to fit perfectly

How historically accurate is it? Well it looks authentic to me. The cameo doesn't look obviously plastic.

Hours to complete: Oh, it was very quick did it in one evening.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: It was all out of my stash so only a couple of quid.

The cameo is glued onto the centre of the cockade. I then attached it to my bonnet.

Bonnets - design choices

From Workwoman's guide

So I want to make a bonnet that's not made from straw. The smell of straw just gets too much after a while. So I was thinking of making a buckram and fabric one. Maybe make it more 'fancy' than my other one using silks etc. this time.
The instructions say "This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz or nankeen with cotton runners." It also instructs to cord it? Maybe if I corded it and interfaced I might get the strength I needed without the buckram?
This bonnet seems to be the same kinda pattern and cording has been used....although I've be tempted to wire the brim.

straw bonnet - too plain?

Which means I have to find a neutral colour to use so it will go with several outfits. I was debating whether to do two, one regency and one victorian OR one that would suit both timeframes.

From google search

I liked the bonnets the dashwood sisters wear in the most recent adaptation. And its what I have in mind or what I'd like to aim for...that 'halo' around the face look.

I really rather liked the pattern from the workwomans guide shown at top of the page. I've done a  'paper' version. This will be first time working with 'buckram' which I suspect is the wrong kind but its stiff so hoping it will work.
 

paper mock up

I've made a few adjustments to the pattern since the photo above which included reducing the brim slightly. also purchased some wider buckram online. I've also been gathering some potential trim.

 The feathers make it look a bit Cranfordian.

The flowers match perfectly my fabric I have for my dress. Decided to make a bib front dress. ;)

HSF Challenge #6 Stripes - Striped Regency Dress

So I know its a bit late but I only found the material and had the idea for the dress a few weeks ago. Its my striped regency dress (which also works as a modern maxi dress.)

I wasn't sure if I should make it short sleeved or sleeveless.

In the end I went for sleeveless, although I still have the sleeves if I change my mind later. This is it in regency mode. With a habit shirt underneath and waist petticoat.

 The buttonholes are done by hand...actually its all done by hand as usual. I put a belt I had in my wardrobe with it. Putting my new dress form to use.

The Challenge: #6 'Stripes'

Fabric: White and blue striped cotton

Pattern: Sense & Sensibility Regency Gown (with a few modifications)

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: vintage buttons, bias binding

How historically accurate is it? Its accurate as far as the pattern is accurate. Right kind of material and 'look'. Hand Sewn.

Hours to complete: Well its taken me just over a week.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: approx £15

HSF Challenge #15 White - Regency Waist Petticoat

The Challenge: #15 'White'
I chose an 'off' white fabric for my waist petticoat. It was very simple. I took 2metres of fabric cut in half so each peice was 45inches wide and 1metre high (yes I know I'm mixing measurements). Sewed up the two side seams leaving about 15cm at the top on one side only and made a placket.
Cut the right length bias binding to fit my waist. Pleated the pack and gathered the front then attached the binding. Added the hook & eye then straps.

Fabric: Off-white polycotton.

Pattern: No pattern. Self drafted.

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: Some kind of tape (it was given to me so I haven't a clue its name), bias binding, hook & eye.

How historically accurate is it? Other than the material composition I think its accurate shapewise and does what it needs to do.

Hours to complete: I lose track coz I put down and pick up. A couple of days all handsewn.

First worn: Well tried it on for photoshoot today.

Total cost: approx £9

Aprons from History

I never thought choosing an apron design would be so hard....but when you have to incorporate 'stripes' into the design you start thinking how you can do this and stay historically accurate.

I have my time limit Pre-1938. So I start looking for patterns and images on pinterest.

Lets start with aprons from the 1930's...

There's a servants uniform

Source: manchestergalleries.org via Lady on Pinterest

And this one which is I'm guessing for the housewife

Source: etsy.com via Lady on Pinterest

they both tie round the waist and have a 'bib'

Then I take a walk back to the 1920's

photo: www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/B-SW002

Showing both waist and a tabbard type apron.

Then 1899-1919

Source: google.com via Lady on Pinterest

This one from 'Grand Hotel' has a bib and some lovely details like the frills and tucks.

 Then 1830-1899

Source: en.wikipedia.org via Lady on Pinterest

Alice has an apron

Source: manchestergalleries.org via Lady on Pinterest

Then the early 1800's

Source: osfcostumerentals.org via Lady on Pinterest

Source: romantichistory.blogspot.com via Joanna on Pinterest

Both with and without 'bib' waistline high.

Pre 1800's

Source: sew18thcentury.com via Lady on Pinterest

Source: vintagetextile.com via Lady on Pinterest

Soooooo....what to choose? There are a few elements to consider:

• How much fabric do I have to play with?
• What do I need an apron for? (Cooking/sewing/cleaning)
• Does it need a bib?
• Does it need a pocket?
• What hight should the waistline be?

Who'd have thought aprons would be so complicated!