Jane Austen Festival Bath - 2016 (the costumes)

Time for my post about the Jane Austen Festival (its quite expensive so I tend to go every other year). Lets start with the dresses which of course are very important.
I had been working on them for a number of months as this time I needed four outfit and I had loaned my usual back up dresses to my mum. Well I don't need more than that as an excuse to make more. I had got much more confident in my sewing and more HA (historically accurate) this time round. I started of course as you should do with the foundations.

So that was 2 more shifts to add to my current total. One of them needed to be longer sleeved 18th century. Then stays which I had completed a last year.

I wanted a 1790's transitional look and couldn't be bothered to fight with gussets. I was able to re use my petticoats, although had to adjust the length by rolling up at the waist, and used a bumroll for my 18th c outfit and of course pockets. Yes I wear them with regency...even with a reticule on hand. And my fichu.
For the Saturday. DAY.

Fichu, bib front gown, fingerless mitts, shawl, broach (cameo) bergere, basket and umbrella (as it was rather wet.) You can see from the photo of the back of the dress how the hem got soaked...my petticoat was pretty muddy too.

EVENING

Unfortunately I don't have many pictures of me wearing the dress as we were in a rush so didn't stop to take any before leaving and then I was dancing most of the time. I will post a more detailed description of the construction of this in the future. the dress was inspired by the tiedens toj dress and the sleeveless spencer was a happy accident as it was originally going to be the lining for and open robe but I liked it so added the gold trim. The headress was a last minute sew it up 5 mins before I leave job. Here I had fan and reticule to complement the look and the ubiquitous broach.

Sunday - day dress

This was my attempted at a late 18th century working class dress. I had petticoat and a lined skirt. My shoes I had modified (another future post) shift, stays, fichu and 'caraco'. I like the 18th c look but to make it more later in the century I'd raised the waistline nearer the natural. You might reconized this item from previous posts its gone from a bed gown, to a short gown and now its more of a caraco. I wore this ensemble to visit no1 the crescent in Bath.

Monday - day/dance dress

I had a bit of a mini disaster with my outfit on the monday so I didn't end up wearing what I planned. Firstly the white bib front gown had shrunk since I last wore it so it was short and I struggled to move my arms. I was wearing modern foundations as I needed to be able to sit in the car for a long journey so couldn't wear the stays this then meant my bra peeked out over my chemise and the chemise over the top of the dress. Arrrgggg! So I tried to make the chemise look part of the dress and pinned it to the bra so that it covered the straps up. Then when I tried my sleeveless spencer over it the waistline was in the wrong place. So I had to take back my old open robe from my mum and wear that instead. This then threw out my colourscheme and thus I improvised. Blue shawl over shoulder. My blue sash I turned into a turban and added my green cameo broach then clipped on my feather bow on the back of my head so it looked like it was part of the regency turban. During the day I wore my ankle boots but changed to my dancing shoes for the workshop.

And so ends the saga of the outfits. I'll post up a general post about the festival very soon. 

HSF 2015 - Challenge #3 - Stash V2

The Challenge: #3 Stash
Fabric: muslin
Pattern: none. self drafted.
Year: 1780-1812
Notions: ribbon
How historically accurate is it?
This was a bit of a last min random item....so my research consisted of checking out pinterest. lol! I tried to make the right shape. It is more of a re-jig of the bib part of a bib front gown I gave up on because it stretched too much.
Hours to complete: Only took me one morning so a few hours.
First worn: For photo's...it won't be worn till later this year.
Total cost: As this was restashed after I gave up on the dress ages ago I've forgotten the price....and I nearly threw it away. eeep! I don't really know the original price anymore.

Sneaky peek at a WIP cosplay...can you guess who I'm cosplaying?

HSF 2014 - Challenge #22 - Menswear (18thC Shirt)

The Challenge: #22 Menswear

Fabric: Linen & cotton

Pattern: Self drafted using knowledge of making shifts and images on pinterest of exhaunt shirts

Year: 18th century, but could pass for earlier and later as its ment to be a generic pirate shirt

Notions: Buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it? Well I used linen which is correct fabric, I used period shirts as reference, but I machine sewed the main seams for speed. I also found I didn't have enough linen so I had to make cuff and collar out of 100% cotton.

Hours to complete: Took me two days of sewing mixture of machine and hand sewing.
First worn: for fittings

Total cost: Approx. £20

Notes: This item although its a "man's" shirt will be worn by me (female). Its for a pirate costume I have an idea for...plus a poet style shirt comes in handy for different outfits and it would make a cosy nighty.

I didn't have enough linen to make the whole shirt. So the collar and cuffs are 100% cotton instead.

Added a little button on the front so I can wear the nack open if I want too.

Upgrading old projects - Item 1

Well as I've reccently found myself in the situation where buying new material isn't an option. Its forced me to sew from my stash and go back and upgrade older items that I made when I first started sewing.
Item 1 - My first shift/chemise

 This was sewn before I had my dress form. So it was a lot of guesswork.

 And although it fitted me, the neckline was way too high for all my dresses.

Plus I'd turned oved the edge rather than using bias binding which had resulted in an ugly looking finish.
So...I unpicked the stitching. Removed the ribbon. Recut the neckline, low and square.

 Used bias binding to create casing for ribbon. Rethreaded the ribbon and finished the ends.

 And voila!

I now have a shift that can go under wider necklines.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #15 - The Great Outdoors (Bonnet)

The Challenge: #15 The Great Outdoors

Fabric: buckram, velvet

Pattern: none. self drafted.
Year: 1795-1830
Notions: Wire. Ribbon and other trim.

How historically accurate is it? Don't ask...I'm not a bonnet expert. This has just been one big experiment.

Hours to complete: it took forever I lost count.

First worn: N/A
Total cost: I lost track of the costs. I know the buckram and wire was pricey. The velvet was a leftover and can't recall the price.


I made the frame out of buckram and wire. I hadn't made a pattern to cut the fabric out with so I used the pattern from the original bergere and fudged it (yep technical term).

 For the brim I worked my way round glueing first at the top then smoothing the material along the brim and glueing it to the underneath. I tried to use as small amount of glue as possible so when I sewed the trim on it couldn't keep hitting glue and gunking up the needles.

Next thing I drew round the top part of the bonnet and added about an inch so I had room to play with, cut it out and worked my way round glueing the edge and smoothing down the material.

I then measured the height and circumference and cut generous seam allowance. Folding over the raw edges and pinning in place (I did glue a few points to anchor it before pinning).

As you can see it needed a bit of tweaking as it doesn't sit flush.

I couldn't help having a play around with the feather and trim just to see if colours worked.

Next was to line the inside. Which I found very tricky as I didn't have a proper pattern. There was a lot of guessing a bodging involved. Basically I cut a large rectangle of fabric. Weighted it inside then folded over thr raw edge as I pinned, pleating to fit.

I then started to decorate the outside. Tacking the lining in place as I attached the band on the outside.

Then I looked at it and thought....there's something missing. Thanks to the HSF contestants(?) who made some suggestions. I added some gold braid.

If I get time I might add a cockade but I think this will do for now.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #15- The Great Outdoors (Regency Spencer)

The Challenge: #15 The Great Outdoors

Fabric: Navy Blue 100% cotton, white lining.

Pattern: S&S regency spencer pattern, and peplum from TV pattern.

Year: 1795-1810 Regency
Notions: White piping, gold braid & buttons

How historically accurate is it? I believe the pattern is accurate. I also found some images on pinterest of fashion plates.
Hours to complete: about a week snatching hours here and there.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: I'm guessing around £25-35.

Notes: I read this quote "The color blue, while seemingly a natural one for the Navy to choose was actually decided upon by the then monarch, George II, who, seeing the Duchess of Bedford ride out in a habit of blue faced with white, was so taken by the combination that he chose the same for his officers’ uniforms."
on jane austen site and that's one of the things that first sparked off the idea. I'm contemplating a 'skirt' to match to make a riding habit ensemble.

I'd learned a few things making my trial version. So this time I had a different approach to the piping. Hand basting it in place first.

I borrowed the peplum off the TV pattern I had for another project. Modifying it slightly so it didn't overpower the spencer.

The Sleeves were narrowed so I didn't have to add the wrist ties. And I added the trim. I decided to have the focus on the back to show off the peplum effect rather than on the front.

Advice for Regency on a budget and not looking for absolute accuracy

SO realising I've not just got to make my new frock, spencer and bonnet...(and another shift) and maybe a chemisette. I have to make a set of clothes for someone else as well its dawning on me I need to plan.

So Basics - I need list of what is needed then what I can buy and what I can make and what I can bodge. Actually a nice guide for a first timer who doesn't want to look like they raided fancy dress up box but doesn't have time, funds or skill to make everything spot on accurate.

Apologies in advance to all those who always want historical accuracy. But I'm not a living historian - this is for 'fun'- so I think compromises can be made. ;)

Clothing:

1. Shift
This can be made.
Alternative - T-shirt will do (I used that and vest tops last time).
2. Stays/Bodiced petticoat
Short stays can be made but I'm not happy with fitting someone else other than me.
Alternative - Good Bra and bodiced petticoat.
3. Chemisette/Fichu/Shirt
Can make all of them but depends on choice.
Alternative - I can modify cotton shirts (H&M do the right kind)
4. Dress (yep now the fun part)
Have 2 commercial patterns I can use (1 accurate, 1 not) plus the version I'm drafting (bib front).
Alternative - You could modify a maxi dress but I'm actually going to sew these dresses properly.
5. Spencer/Pelisse
I haven't got a pattern for one (currently drafting my own).
Alternative -  Find a jacket close enough then chop it up to crop it.
6. Bonnet/Cap
Make from scratch using buckram etc. Or sew the capote or turban hats.
Alternative - Convert cheap straw hat from fancy dress shop
7. Sash/Shawl
Make one/Buy One
8. Shoes
Buy expensive accurate ones
Alternative - Cheap pumps from a well known cheap clothing shop
9. Gloves/fingerless gloves
Sew them from pattern
Alternative - Buy from fancy dress shop
10. Reticule
Simple and quick to make.
Alternative - You could probably find a drawstring wash bag.
11. Fan
Buy wood one and paint it.
Alternative - buy any one from cheap shop
12. Stockings
Well you could by proper ones.
Alternative - Tights (Mine were light pink) or long (knee high) socks.

So going the alternative route you could find most of that in your wardrobe already or in cheap shops.

For myself I only need to sew 1 4 5 6 10 (and they are just updates really). Half my problem is not knowing what the weather will be like.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #15- The Great Outdoors (1790s walking dress)

The Challenge: #15 The Great Outdoors

Fabric: White 100% cotton.

Pattern: S&S regency dress pattern, modified into bib front gown.

Year: 1795-1801 Regency
Notions: bias binding, ribbon, buttons, boning

How historically accurate is it? I belive the pattern is accurate. Not sure about the materials as they were a bit of an unknown quantity.
Hours to complete: Well one full day and two evenings.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: I'm guessing around the £25-30 mark. It was a mix of stash and bought materials.

So this started originally as something for the Black & White challenge, then as I didn't finish it planned it for the Art challenge...that was a failure.Threw the result away and started again, same pattern different fabric...and a few tweaks to my original idea.
So for one thing this time I boned the front lining flaps. I'd had problems before with stretching and wrinkling so this was my solution.

the front will be closed with hook n eye or lacing

I also added a drawstring along neckline to help with the shoulders sliding off. Inspired by seeing this image.

I Then worked on the 'bib'. This was supposed to be delicatly gathered. But it came out a bit..chunky.

 But looking around there are some exant examples from the right era with the chunky front panel.

and this gorgeous dress...I was originally going to do something even closer and have blue dress with white sleeves.

I notice her chemise shows slightly above the neckline...finding the right shape chemise is my next challenge.

 I added two loops to the bib and buttons on the 'straps' to hold front in place.

 and also hand pleated the back (excuse the scruffyness needs pressing). Next I had to add the waist drawstring and the belt carriers. Then hem it.

I found that when I added the bustle pad I didn't need to add belt carriers to keep it in place...but then that's only on the dress form. With moving around me it might be different.

HSF 2014 - Challenge #14- Paisley & Plaid (Regency Shawl)

The Challenge: #14 Paisley & Plaid

Fabric: White 'Muslin' (openweave)

Pattern: N/A
Year: 1795-1800s Regency
Notions: Fabric Paint

How historically accurate is it? I used images of fashion plates to get an idea of the pattern placement. but the fabric paint isn't regency. lol!
Hours to complete: I'm not sure 2 hours perhaps? Had to let it dry.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: Cost, now that's tricky, I've lost the receipt. But the fabric paint was a couple of quid on sale and the muslin was what was left of my original 1790s dress I scrapped.

I did some reserch on pinterest and found many images or regency shawls with a paisley motif. This ones shape is based on the long rectangular shawls.

 I used the wood block I got at craft fair to print the paisley pattern. And used some ink stamps I'd found in local shop for the boarder.

The shawl itself was made from two long strips of muslin, finished with a rolled hem.

as you can see the dress still needs hemming.

 I debated adding more rows of paisley print but decided to go for just the two rows for now.