HSF Challenge #24 Re-Do - Bib Front Regency Dress

The Challenge: #24 Re-Do

The Challenge you are Re-do-ing: #4 Embelishment

Fabric: Muslin.

Pattern: I used S&S regency gown pattern as my bodice but with modifications (see post below). the skirts were based on the pattern in the janet arnold book patterns of fashion.

Year: 1800-1820 - Regency

Notions: Embroidery floss. Ribbon.

How historically accurate is it? Well I've taken inspiration from both patterns of fashion and costumes in detail. Everything bar the long skirt side seam was done by hand.

Hours to complete: About a week just doing little stints of sewing when I could.

First worn: N/A (its for 2014)

Total cost: approx. £25

The first thing I did was cut out the peices and do the embroidery. I'm really pleased with how the bluebells came out.

After I'd made up the bodice and fitted it...

I then attached the 'skirts' to the 'bib' and then the skirts to the bodice.

Then attached the ribbon 'tie' to the waistband.

I think next time round I will have the skirt further back so the overlap is nearer the sides than the front.

 The skirts were a little too long. So I added in a tuck.

 I then pinned up the hem and thought 'hmmmm....I might need another tuck in there'.

Being lazy I'm gonna leave it for now. I added a waist stay on the inside. Sewed up the hem and ta da! Finished.

"it will be a very useful gown, happy to go anywhere"

"I have determined to trim my lilac sarsenet with black satin ribbon just as my China crape is, 6d. width at the bottom, 3d. or 4d., at top. Ribbon trimmings are all the fashion at Bath, and I dare say the fashions of the two places are alike enough in that point to content me. With this addition it will be a very useful gown, happy to go anywhere."

Just as Jane did I've come to the conclusion that for Bath my purple dress needs to be trimmed with black.

 With a black spencer and black bonnet with my purple flower trim and white lining.

I'll wear my black pumps but then have either a white or purple reticule. I already have the right colour umbrella and fan to match. I'm going to have a go at doing some fancy ribbon trim too.

Blubells, spring and woodland inspired outfit

I want to have a bluebell 'theme' inspired outfit. But first I need to decide what colour a 'bluebell' really is...Blue? Purple? Violet? Indigo? Lilac?

they seem very light colour lilac in above image

Trying to find the right shade is going to be tricky. I was thinking I might buy some white cotton or linen blend then dye it the shade I want? I'm leaning towards trying to aim for a violet colour.
Maybe try 'intense violet' then tone it down with a blue? But I've never mixed dyes or over dyed before....any tips?

I love the dress from the poster from bright star. I can't figure out if its colour is achieved by layering or just by dyeing oddly? Has someone taken purple fabric and tried to dye it blue? Or have they got white fabric and dyed it first purple then blue? Linen or cotton?
Next thing to think about is the bonnet. What colour shall I do it? White with purple accessories? Or purple? Or green perhaps? Or maybe white base, green ribbon and purple feather or flowers on it?

I probably change the waistband..it was just an idea. But what colour goes with it?

HSF Challenge #6 Stripes - Striped Regency Dress

So I know its a bit late but I only found the material and had the idea for the dress a few weeks ago. Its my striped regency dress (which also works as a modern maxi dress.)

I wasn't sure if I should make it short sleeved or sleeveless.

In the end I went for sleeveless, although I still have the sleeves if I change my mind later. This is it in regency mode. With a habit shirt underneath and waist petticoat.

 The buttonholes are done by hand...actually its all done by hand as usual. I put a belt I had in my wardrobe with it. Putting my new dress form to use.

The Challenge: #6 'Stripes'

Fabric: White and blue striped cotton

Pattern: Sense & Sensibility Regency Gown (with a few modifications)

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: vintage buttons, bias binding

How historically accurate is it? Its accurate as far as the pattern is accurate. Right kind of material and 'look'. Hand Sewn.

Hours to complete: Well its taken me just over a week.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: approx £15

Open Robe and Matching Dress - HSF# 9 - Flora and Fauna

The Challenge: #9 Flora and Fauna

Fabric: Cotton Dyed Green with floral motif, plain white linen type material.

Pattern: Sense & Sensibility regency gown (modified)

Year: 1795-1800 (Regency but the open robe gives it more of the feel of end of georgian era)

Notions: bias binding, self cover buttons thread

How historically accurate is it? I couldn't be sure with the materials but it definatly looks authentic. Like its off a fashion plate.

Hours to complete: Open robe was an item I made last year but realised it needed lots of changes. So time taken to adjust, amend and dye the robe about 3 days. For the dress underneath took me about 6 days which included making the bias binding and making fitting adjustments.

First worn: To take these photos. But will be worn again next year as I have a regency event I plan to go to.

Total cost:£20 for the dress, Probably about same for the open robe.

 

You can see the original robe here. The adjustments of the open robe was:

Raise Waistline

Remove Button

Remove front panels

I used the front panels from the open robe to make the bias binding to trim the dress. Which was made to complement it. Yes I know the sash is in the wrong place. I couldn't reach to pin it in place at the back or do up all the buttons by myself. The long sleeves in this image are pinned in but in future will be tacked in when needed. 
My shift is showing..oops! I will have to make another one along with a waist petticoat.

Regency Day Dress - Part 1

I know, I know....this is me thinking up ideas for a all purpose regency day dress.

 I'm really warming to the 'jumper' style. Sleeveless but that allows a chemise or habit shirt to be worn underneath. That is so much more 'me'.

Like the ones worn in 2009 BBC version of 'Emma'.

I'm leaning towards a blue coloured 'jumper' with white sleeves and white lace trim (bought in Bath).

I would still be inclined to use with cotton rather than silks....just for ease of care.

Of course leaving enough fabric to make matching headress...this time with feather. And a bonnet if I can make one from scratch. I would have it back opening as well.

I like this one...princess charlotte wore (that girl had good taste...I like all her dresses).

Source: google.com.au via Lady on Pinterest

So I'm now looking for more fashionplates showing these type of dresses.

It will be practical too as I can swap between long and short sleeves without changing my dress.

Source: experimentsinelegance.blogspot.com via Lady on Pinterest

I do like the ruffled front of this one though and lower waistline.

What I'm going for is regency but that is quite subtle and I could get on a bus for example and not feel too extravagant.  I've been colecting a pinterest board of all the images of these kind of dresses I can find.

http://pinterest.com/ldtideas/1790-1820-jumper-pinafore-type-dresses/

So thoughts?

Regency Ballgown - Part 1

So as you may have read my first attempt at using the sense & sensibility pattern was not a sucsses. I quite gave up on it. Then I started using patterns for simple things...building up my skill base. I also had a read of how to make a bodiced petticoat. Picked up the pattern again and gave it another go. This time it was so much easier. I also did the adjustments myself rather than letting mum make them. Lengthened the bodice for one thing and used darts instead of gathers.

I also looked up some actual garments for inspiration....
Like this

Source: metmuseum.org via Lady on Pinterest

and this

Source: nationaltrustcollections.org.uk via Lady on Pinterest

I noticed that they had waistbands like the petticoat. So I factored that in.

waistband hight is it ok?

I wanted to disguise the 'darts' a little and the images gave me the solution. Put trim over them. I'm going to make it so I can put a drawstring through the waistband at a later date if needed.
As it was an 'experiment' I used cheap material in my 'stash'....and was surprised how well they went together. The white is a linen blend and the claret colour is a poly silk haboutai.

Inside

The back will have a buttonhole closure. As I'm low on material the hem might come just above my ankle and the fullness at back taken in a little.

Source: vintagedancers.org via Laura on Pinterest

Which seems acceptable for a dancing dress. (looking at that picture I don't know how those slippers are staying on. If that was me they would have gone flying off my feet by now. lol!)
I may add some trim like a ruffle or lace to lengthen it if needs be.
I will update when its finished. But would love to know your thoughts on it so far.

Update 1
I've started on the sleeves and made the eyelets in the waistband.

 I'm planning on slitting the white fabric so the red colour shows through like the fashion plate above.

yes I know its upside down (forgot to rotate it before uploading)

Quite enjoyed making the eyelet its nicer tan making buttonholes.

And here is sleeve on the bodice. Hopefully suitably 'puffy' need to choose where I want the red-y lining to show.

Doctor Who meets Regency

It just sprung to mind the 1820s dresses were a bit Dalek-ish. So here is a Doctor Who inspired frock.

You will now be returned to usual programming. lol!

What do you think?

Edit: I discoverd this fashionplate

Jane austen festival, Bath - Regency Dress Outing - Part 1

"Her daily expressions were no longer, "I wish we had some acquaintance in Bath !" - Northanger Abbey

Well as you know if you are a regular reader of my blog, I have been sewing a regency outfit in preperation for the Jane Austen Festival. It went through many erm...changes till I found a combination that I liked, even having to make a last minute change after looking at the weather forcast. The weatherman was wrong BTW. It was warm enough I needen't have made a spencer. Oh, well.

Above is photo of all my regency stuff laid out ready. After trying it on I decided to ditch the open robe for now and got with dress, sash and spencer with my bonnet.
We had to take the bus into Bath. got many requests for photo's along with the never ending "why are you dressed like that?" even got asked if we were 'on TV'. lol!
Arriving quite early (although there were some people already there) we had a chance to mingle and talk to the other 'promenaders'. Everyone was very friendly and didn't mind having their photo taken. I got quite a few photo requests myself.

 I found myself as did other quickly hiding the modern cameras before a photo was taken.

"Quick, hide the modern stuff"

Met the lovely Sandi and Aroura.

As well as several people from various parts of the world. Including America and the Netherlands

 I found everyone willing to talk and compare outfits. I must admit some of my photos was me going "like that idea, must try to re-create it".

Like the tartan/check/plaid.

the ladybird wing like slope of the jacket is nice

Pretty spencers...

 Everyone was asked to line up each side of the path. The redcoat soldiers marched past first followed by everyone else in twos...or near enough.

Snaking through the roads of Bath flanked on each side by people taking photographs.

And throughout the promenade the old juxtoposed with the modern (oh, deep...yeah I know).

Till finally reaching the parade gardens...where everyone filed in.

There was a display by Steps in Time of dancing.

Lots more chatting before making out way to the guildhall.

Now, which way is it?

It was the perfect setting..such beautiful archetechture.

Me rushing up stairs (I was hungry after all that walking)

I was keen to get to the luncheon as I was hungry and parched from all that promenading. lol!

 It was a very pretty spread...and I will be making some brie and grape sandwiches in future...yummy!

Then had a nose round the fayre...lots of pretty stuff I liked but couldn't afford. lol! Did get some cotton lace from the haberdashery stall in the corner thought and some hair grips from the wig stall.

I also took the opertunity to admire more outfits...and then toddled off downstairs to see the Pride & Predudice play. Didn't realize it was audience participation. lol! Got called 'Charlotte Lucas' with my curls and lace cap.
Had a cup of tea before heading back to our accomodation. The next day we didn't have tickets for anything but on our wander round Bath quite enjoyed trying to spot people in costume.

Part 2 - coming soon.