HSF Challenge #6 Stripes - Striped Regency Dress

So I know its a bit late but I only found the material and had the idea for the dress a few weeks ago. Its my striped regency dress (which also works as a modern maxi dress.)

I wasn't sure if I should make it short sleeved or sleeveless.

In the end I went for sleeveless, although I still have the sleeves if I change my mind later. This is it in regency mode. With a habit shirt underneath and waist petticoat.

 The buttonholes are done by hand...actually its all done by hand as usual. I put a belt I had in my wardrobe with it. Putting my new dress form to use.

The Challenge: #6 'Stripes'

Fabric: White and blue striped cotton

Pattern: Sense & Sensibility Regency Gown (with a few modifications)

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: vintage buttons, bias binding

How historically accurate is it? Its accurate as far as the pattern is accurate. Right kind of material and 'look'. Hand Sewn.

Hours to complete: Well its taken me just over a week.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: approx £15

Waistcoat for Doctor Who Outfit - the fitting process

I've finally decided that I needed to go for the eighth doctor style. It suits me more than elevens outfit. And eight is my fave doctor after all.

Now I originaly planned to use a different pattern but why try to make a jacket a waistcoat if I already have a waistcoat pattern. (I found I had one on my spring clean up. lol!)

Now I had a few fitting issues. I tried to use fit for real people just just ended up confusing myself....

So resorted to good oldfashioned trial and error. Even added a little pocket for my pocket watch.

Tried it on over my shorts I made from the pattern I'm gonna use for the high waist trousers. So I get the right fit.

I took out the dart and used it to add more material so the CB was actually centred.

Trying to figure out if I could add a godet for a flash or colour or maybe a kick pleat?

Here it is over a shirt and with 'cravat' of course this is to give idea of shapes. And they will not be used in the final costume.
What do you think?

Yes, I've made a paper dress form!

I've been reserching dressforms for a while now. I don't have any help with fitting so it usually involves a mirror and lots of mumbling under my breath. So my solution was a dress form. I can't really fork out a lot of money so I decided to make my own (with a little help from my friend and her cat). I read every blog post, forum comment and website on the subject. Worked out all the dos and don'ts.

It also helped me decide I wanted paper and not duct tape dress form. I also like that paper would be the more vintage/historically authentic way.

Here she is...

Trying to decide on a name I thought maybe Sally or as references to me being in armour were mande during her construction maybe Xena or Bouddica would be more appropriate? ;)

Details of note...
Used 2 layers of paper 3 over the bust area. Used a cheap t-shirt from primark. Drew lines on before cutting out to make it easier to line up when the back is rejoined. Its handy to have someone who knows how to cut of bandages and plaster casts on the other end of the scissors. You CAN eat dinner while in the 'cast' (its tricky but possible). If I do it again need another layer on hips so it doesn't crumple when stood on its base*. The top of the cast dries quickest so I would recommend hanging the drying dress form like I have by the shoulders.
It took 1 roll of 36mmx35meter roll per layer and approx 2.5hours in total. I only had 2 rolls.
I measured it and its aprox. an inch out. That's fine for me as I like a bit of ease. at least I know if something is snug on the dress form it will fit me with breathing space.

Next I need to stuff the dress form. Mount it somehow (maybe use a hanger as I don't have a stand?) and then I'm going to paint and varnish it. I have some modge podge which I hope will do the job.

*You can see the crumple in the photo.

HSF Challenge #15 White - Regency Waist Petticoat

The Challenge: #15 'White'
I chose an 'off' white fabric for my waist petticoat. It was very simple. I took 2metres of fabric cut in half so each peice was 45inches wide and 1metre high (yes I know I'm mixing measurements). Sewed up the two side seams leaving about 15cm at the top on one side only and made a placket.
Cut the right length bias binding to fit my waist. Pleated the pack and gathered the front then attached the binding. Added the hook & eye then straps.

Fabric: Off-white polycotton.

Pattern: No pattern. Self drafted.

Year: 1790-1820

Notions: Some kind of tape (it was given to me so I haven't a clue its name), bias binding, hook & eye.

How historically accurate is it? Other than the material composition I think its accurate shapewise and does what it needs to do.

Hours to complete: I lose track coz I put down and pick up. A couple of days all handsewn.

First worn: Well tried it on for photoshoot today.

Total cost: approx £9

Doctor Who here I come! (planning post)

I'm just a ickle bit excited because...
I got tickets to the Doctor Who Convention at London's Excel in November. Woooooooooooooooo!!!!
*Hyperventilates*

Now if my viewing of episodes of the big bang theroy are correct sci-fi events like this mean a chance to dress up. And I never need too much of an excuse to dress up. Now what Doctor Who related character to choose? I wanted to incorperate historical or vintage elements.
I noticed a lot of who is victorian/edwardian influenced.
There were a lot of tardis theme outfits around like this.
But I decided to do a doctor who costume but not a slavish copy (couldn't really do that with my budget). I'm going for inspired by trying to encapsulate the spirit of the outfit. Think of it as if romana tried to dress as the doctor what she'd choose.

My brain instantly reviewed my current wardrobe for any reusable items I could use in combination with a few me me made peices. But that got me thinking which Doctor's outfit should I be looking at?
Well I've taken elements I think I could produce.

Shirt: The 11th doctor's shirt is striped and longsleeved.
Now I find it impossible to find a longsleeved striped shirt for me. So I will have to sew myself one. Out comes my TNT pattern Lisette 2246.

Waistcoat: Now the doctor in several guises wears a waistcoat...but I wanted a 'femanine' sillouette.
View A of Mccalls 6770 sans sleeves in the correct fabric would do nicely.

Trousers: Well I would look rediculous in skinny trousers that 11th Doctor wears so I've gone for some highwaisted trousers using another TNT pattern Eliza M Swing/Hop Pants.

Coat/Jacket: Now here's my dilemma a frock coat is my ideal but (1) I don't know if I'll have time to make it (2) I can't find a ladies pattern for a frock coat. I can only find this mens pattern. Simplicity 2895.
Can I adapt it to work for an hourglass figure? Is there a lady frock coat pattern out there?

I may just leave it out and go for just trousers, waistcoat and shirt (with tie).


What do you think? Comments, suggestions or tips?

---
UPDATE:

Got my fabric.

The photo doesn't give the most accurate idea of colours. But its a greeny brown suiting. I'll use that for waistcoat and trousers. The green lining is because I wanted something 'fun'.

Once I do the wasitcoat and trouser then I can think shirt and coat/jacket. I do have a tweed jacket in my wardrobe, but then I also have a green brocade one. Its becoming a gestalt outfit with elements of several doctors in...kinda a eighty-eleveny amalgamation.

Its slowly creeping more towards an eight outfit.

HSF Challenge #13 Lace and Lacing - Regency Short/Half Stays

The Challenge: #13 Lace and Lacing

Fabric: Floral polycotton, Cream Cotton Twill

Pattern: I started with the Daffydown Dilly Wrap Stay Pattern, but modified it to lace at the back and have adjustable straps.

Year: 1790-1815. I intended it to be more of a transition peice. Inspired by seeing an image of some 'jumps' and thinking of combining the regency short stay with the jumps. As I needed a longer stay but not one that went over my hips.

Notions: Bias binding, cotton tape, embroidery floss and an old cheap corset which I cannibalised for eyelets.

How historically accurate is it? - I was inspired by various images but it developed out of what my needs were to acheive the correct sillouette. The materials aren't exactly period but no one will see under my petticoat and dress.

Hours to complete: I lost count. Been picking it up and putting it down for months.

First worn: N/A

Total cost: Erm....lost track. I only bought the notions really and the cotton twill everything else was from my stash.

Notes: After cutting out the modified pattern I tacked the fashion fabric and lining together and attached the eyelets.

I drew out a rough approximation of where I wanted the cording to go.

Made the hole for the busk to go in. Then started the long process of cording using wool.

Then bound the edges -adding in drawstring on top edge- trimming a little length off the bottom so the curve would allow it to sit above my hips.

Made eyelets on the straps and laced up the back. Using spiral lacing. My first attempt.

Handmade eyelets

 And finally finished the stays. They are longer than short stays but not as long as full stays. A lot of it is me just using what I can find. If I got into re-enacting I'd do it again but with accurate stuff but at the moment these will do.

Back (spiral laces)

Front

This means I can now start on the other layers of my regency outfit.

Seaside themed vintage

Well its that time of year again...the local lindy exchange and I've set myself quite a task. A new outfit for each dance. So that's three for the evening dances. The themes go Casual, Vintage, Seaside.
So I decided to have a general nautical feel and blues as a colour running through the outfits.

A boat print 1940's style dress. This is for SEASIDE.

Pattern used  Butterick 5209 (LINK)

Navy blue swing trousers to wear with red and white striped top. This is for VINTAGE.

Pattern used - Eliza M hop swing pants (link)

Blue Polkadot circle skirt (with complimentary top.) The is is for CASUAL.

Pattern used - Simplicity 3847 (LINK)

So one from each era near enough....hope you like them.